Pest of the Month

ESA Entomology 2011 Confrence

2012-01-03T10:49:00.000-08:00

Entomological Socity of America's annual confrence was held in Reno Nevada this year. Our very own Ralph H. Maestre BCE attended along with Lynn Frank BCE of Suburban Exterminating.

This years hot topics were Identify Clarify and Speak Out -- reflecting the need for entomologists to inform others about exactly what it is that we do and don’t do, since arthropods touch the lives of every person on the planet, every day, in both positive and negative ways.

Ralph with Dr Dini Miller of Virginia Technical Institute

Ralph and Lynn enjoy a few free moments exploring Reno

Weapons of Mouse Destruction: How to Eliminate Relentless Rodents

2011-08-24T07:50:00.000-07:00

This article appeared in Popular Mechanics authored by Adam Hadhazy

There are plenty more ways beyond the traditional mousetrap to get the rodents infesting your house. We survey the best ways homeowners and exterminators can solve a mouse problem. By Adam Hadhazy Popular Mechanics

The Mouse: It's a pest that has been invading human living spaces ever since we holed up in caves. The hardy creatures require little food and virtually no water, allowing them to thrive in modern buildings, behind our walls and under our floors.

Although cute and squeaky in the wild, mice are a dangerous nuisance in the home. The critters chew up insulation and gnaw through electrical wiring, creating a fire hazard. Mice can contaminate food with their feces. They carry fleas and diseases. Many people are allergic to the animal's urine. To top it off, the rodents breed prolifically; in several weeks a few mice can become a dozen.

Mouse intrusions happen year-round, but tend to spike in many parts of the country in the summer months and late fall, according to Ralph H. Maestre, technical director at Magic Pest Management based in Flushing, New York. Exterminators have developed a full arsenal of methods to kill, capture and control the millions of rodents, mostly mice, who aim to set up shop in our homes and businesses, from the simple and iconic mousetrap to far more elaborate attacks. Here's a look at the weapons of mouse destruction.

Kill Zones: Front-line Traps: The traditional way to fight mouse infestation is with traps. Inquisitive mice can't help but check them out, especially if there's bait. "Mice are very curious about the new things in their environment," says Jim Fredericks, director of technical services for the National Pest Management Association.

Traps come in three basic varieties. First, classic snap traps, whose invention dates back to 1894. "To this day, the original old-fashioned snap trap is one of the most effective traps we have," Fredericks says. While going for the bait in these traps, the mouse steps on a trip and, SNAP!, a spring-loaded bar slams down with backbreaking force.

A second class, glue or sticky traps, uses strong adhesives to ensnare mice. (However, glue traps have raised the hackles of some animal-rights proponents, as stuck mice will sometimes chew through their limbs or rip themselves apart trying to break free.)

A third and less gruesome option is multiple-catch or live traps. Through mechanical means-spring-loaded doors, flippers, teeter-totter-like levers and the like-the traps capture several mice in a storage area. The spared vermin can then be deposited far from the dwelling to keep them from coming back.

As for the choice of bait, skip the traditional cheddar cheese. "Mice really like seeds, chocolate, peanut butter and bacon," says Greg Baumann, Orkin technical services director

Mousetraps 2.0: Unconventional Killing Machines"Building a better mousetrap" isn't just an adage. Exterminator pros are always trying to come up with better ways to catch rodents.

The Rat Zapper by AgriZap uses ordinary food bait to lure a mouse or rat, just like a traditional mousetrap does. But then the device zaps the rodent to kingdom come, courtesy of four D batteries. Victor makes various electronic mouse traps as well, including one that can catch and fry 10 mice.

Another alternative trap is the NOOSKI, made in New Zealand. As a mouse enters the trap, it must stick its head through a rubber ring-which instantly contracts and suffocates the little bugger.

Perhaps the most advanced mousetrap around is the RADAR (Rodent Activated Detection And Riddance) device by U.K. company Rentokil Pest Control, geared for commercial use. When a mouse scampers into RADAR's tunnel and crosses two consecutive infrared beams, the trap seals shut and floods the chamber with a deadly dose of carbon dioxide. As a courtesy, RADAR notifies its owner via text message when the deed is done.

Poisons: Gobbling Down Some Sweet Death If traps don't take care of your mouse problem, maybe it's time to switch to chemical warfare. Poisonous baits sold in pellet form, or in newer putty formulations, turn the natural tendency of mice to gnaw and nibble against them.

So-called rodenticides come in a number of varieties, but the most common are anticoagulants. These compounds cause internal hemorrhaging, ending a mouse's life in a few days. If you choose this route to kill mice, however, keep a supply of vitamin K1 around: It's an antidote to the anticoagulants that you can give to cats and dogs if they eat the poison, Fredericks says.

Other creative chemistries for dispatching mice include metal phosphide-laced baits, he says. When zinc phosphide reacts with the acid in a rodent's stomach, highly toxic phosphine gas forms. Vitamin D is another killing agent. The vitamin makes mice absorb too much calcium from their food, while leaching the mineral from their bones. The resulting hypercalcemia (excessive levels of calcium in the blood) damages the heart, kidneys and other organs.

Fredericks points out that all pesticides, including rodenticides, must be approved by the EPA and are regulated by state agencies. In other words, custom cocktails are not available. "Pros definitely don't make their own secret recipe," he says.

Tracking Tech: Seek and Destroy Mice are frustratingly elusive, nibbling on food left out at night and vanishing during the day. But, unbeknownst to the rodents, they leave signs that reveal their movements. Those signs just happen to be in UV. Mouse urine fluoresces in UV light, so shining a black light around can show where the rodents pee. "The use of black lights is really a great inspection tool," Fredericks says, though it takes a trained eye to discern genuinely glowing mouse urine from splashes of, say, floor-scrubbing detergent.

Simply leaving traps wherever you find mouse droppings might not be the best approach, though, says Douglas Stern, managing partner at New Jersey-based Stern Environmental Group. His company developed a fluorescent powder that could help you track mice back to their nests. "When the mice walk on the powder, they get it on their feet and it leaves a footprint," Stern says. To get the powder onto the mice, load it into a box with food or dust it onto cotton balls, which the mice nab as nesting material. Then follow the footprints, which appear under UV, to find where the mice have set up shop. This lets you set up traps there, or seal off an outside entry point if mice are entering into the house from outdoors.

The so-called Track & Trap system has yet to become widespread, but Stern envisions the product having key niche applications. 'I think it's going to be very popular in instances where you have mice running around and no one knows where they're coming from, he tells PM. Meanwhile, major manufacturer Bell Labs has also started selling rodenticide food pellets doped with chemicals to make mouse feces glow green.

Fight Animals With Animals Release the hounds! Exterminators today are taking a cue from law enforcement and turning to dogs' super sensitive noses for smelling bed bugs, ants and termites. Dogs are just beginning to enter the field of mouse control, Fredericks says, but canines could potentially sniff out rodent headquarters.

Cats, of course, are the traditional nemesis of mice. "I think there's probably a lot of farmers that would swear their barn cats keep the mice out," Fredericks says. But the idea of a house cat attacking your mouse problem is probably more cartoon fodder than reality. A standard domesticated cat that lives in a house is probably not really hungry enough to be interested in killing mice," he says. In fact, Baumann describes a case where mice stole cat food right out of the dish and hoarded it under the stove without the pet so much as raising a paw.

Finally, for those homeowners who aren't like Indiana Jones, snakes are always a fine predatory option. Case in point: Corn snakes, a popular, nonvenomous pet which winds around prey constrictor-style, love dining on mice.

Ultimately, there's no guarantee that a barrage of traps, poisons or high-tech repellents will solve a mouse problem, especially if mice find your home to be a sanctuary. The best approach, then, is one of the simplest: Make your home inhospitable to rodents. "Keep in mind, mice are pretty much like us. They need food, water and a place to live," Baumann says. Eliminate those resources by keeping the house clean and sealed off, and store food in secure containers.

Repellents and Fortifications: Defense is the Best Offense Preventing rodents from infiltrating the home in the first place has become big business. A number of rodent-repelling odorants are sold at hardware and home stores, including Critter Out spray, Fresh Cab Scent Pouches and Shake Away Rodent Repellent Granules that claim to smell like predators, banking on fear to keep mice away. Some people swear by strong scents, such as pine or cayenne peppers, or even dryer sheets. But experts say the effectiveness is questionable.

On the high-tech side, several companies offer ultrasonic repellers that supposedly keep mice at bay with sound waves. These devices send out sound waves above 20 kilohertz, the typical human high-end threshold for hearing, and some modulate between 32 and 64 kHz so undesirable animals cannot adapt. But Orkin's Baumann and others are skeptical. "My favorite is the fact when [manufacturers] say these things will repel insects, rodents, birds-only the bad stuff-but if you have a bird or a dog, it won't be affected," Baumann says. "There might be some promise with these products coming out in the near future, but I've not seen any scientific data to suggest that they actually work."

Simply shoring up a home might be the best way to thwart rodent intruders. Do a residence self-inspection by checking the foundation for holes, and spaces under doors. "If you walk around your house and see any hole that a pencil can fit though, a mouse can fit through," Baumann says. Seal up those holes with caulk, weatherstripping or steel wool, which mice can't chew through. Follow up with regular patrols of your property.

Coby Schal Wins Award for Bed Bug Baiting System

2011-07-29T06:43:00.000-07:00

Fundamentals of Pest Control @ New York City College of Technology

2011-06-27T13:13:00.000-07:00

Ralph H. Maestre BCE and author of "The Bed Bug Book" has started teaching a course in The Fundamentals of Pest Control at The New York College of Technology.

This course meets New York State Department of Environmental Conservations 30 hour course requirement.

Ralph has also been asked to give several free lectures on Bed Bugs but a date for those events have not been set.

The Bed Bug Book First Printing Sold Out

2011-03-15T09:35:00.000-07:00

FIRST PRINTING
..............SOLD OUT

THE BED BUG BOOK
The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
By Certified Entomologist Ralph H. Maestre

Magic is proud to announce that our very own Technical Director Ralph H. Maestre BCE has published his first book. All of us have benefited by Ralph's expertise in Termites, Rodents, Ants, and especially Bed Bugs.

In the book Ralph goes through Bed Bug case studies detailing how people got them, how Magic eradicated them and the advice given to prevent the return of Bed Bugs.

For more information on Magic's Bed Bug Services click the links below:

Video of Ralph on Good Morning America February 23, 2011

Purchase The Bed Bug Book on Amazon

Magic's Technical Director Ralph Maestre BCE on NPR's The Animal House

2011-02-25T06:54:00.000-08:00

Ralph will be interviewed on NPR's The Animal House tomorrow 2-26-11 at 12:00 Noon. Ralph is the Author of "The Bed Bug Book".

I have the blessing of working with Ralph. His knowledge and experience have helped me in understanding our environment and why insects and animals invade.

Click Here to visit "The Animal House" website and listen to the interview.

Magic's Ralph Maestre on Good Morning America author of The Bed Bug Book

2011-02-23T07:49:00.000-08:00

Magic Pest Management's Technical Director Ralph H. Maestre BCE was interviewed by Juju Chang on Good Morning America this morning. Ralph's book "The Bed Bug Book" was released today.

See the interview at GMA

You can read a sample of the book or purchase a copy at Amazon.

Magic on ABC's Good Morning America Tomorrow Morning

2011-02-22T13:10:00.000-08:00

Magic's very own Ralph H. Maestre will be appearing on ABC's Good Morning America Tomorrow between 7am-9am February 23, 2011 and on NPR Radio's "The Animal House" between 1pm-3pm. Also, hear Ralph around the country on an ABC Satellite Radio Tour February 24, 2011

THE BED BUG BOOK
The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
by Board Certified Entomologist Ralph H. Maestre

Magic Pest Management is proud to announce that our very own Technical Director Ralph H. Maestre BCE has published his first book. All of us have benefited by Ralph's expertise in Termites, Rodents, Ants, and especially Bed Bugs.

In the book Ralph goes through Bed Bug case studies detailing how people get Bed Bugs, how Magic eradicated the Bed Bugs and the advice given to prevent the return of Bed Bugs.

THE BED BUG BOOK

2011-02-01T14:11:00.000-08:00

The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
By Certified Entomologist Ralph H. Maestre

Magic is proud to announce that our very own Technical Director Ralph H. Meastre BCE has published his first book. All of us have benefited by Ralph's expertise in Termites, Rodents, Ants, and especially Bed Bugs.

In the book Ralph goes through Bed Bug case studies detailing how people got them, how Magic eradicated them and the advice given to prevent the return of Bed Bugs.

Ralph will be appearing on Good Morning America February 23, 2011 and will be interviewed around the country on an ABC Satellite Radio Tour February 24, 2011.

Below is the official press release from Skyhorse Publishing:

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
CONTACT: Esther Bochner
ebochner@skyhorsepublishing.com
212 643 6816 x 224

ARE YOU SAFE FROM BED BUGS?
EXTERMINATOR RALPH MAESTRE SHOWS YOU HOW TO PROTECT YOUR HOME AND YOUR FAMILY!

THE BED BUG BOOK
The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
By Certified Entomologist Ralph H. Maestre

“They were everywhere. The bed bugs were in the dentures, toothbrush, dressers, ceiling, walls, baseboards, sofa, dining room table, inside groceries, and in a picture frame of The Last Supper.”
- From a cast study in The Bed Bug Book

Bed bugs were believed to have been eradicated in the 1940s and ‘50s, but after a 1972 ban on the use of DDT, the dreaded insects are now reaching epidemic levels! Recent high-profile infestations include the Empire State Building, apartments at the University of Texas at Dallas, the New York City Department of Health, and the Victoria’s Secret and Elle Magazine headquarters. Outbreaks have occurred in Cincinnati, Denver, Los Angeles, Phoenix, and hundreds of other cities throughout the country. No tourist attraction, department store, or home is safe from these creepy, crawly, pesky vermin. Are you prepared?

In The Bed Bug Book, board certified entomologist and practicing exterminator Ralph Maestre provides answers that will protect you, your home, and your family from catching bed bugs, and educate you about how to get rid of them and prevent them from coming back if you’ve already gotten them.

Some of the vital advice that you will read inside includes:
• There is no silver bullet for bed bugs. Despite public wishes, there is no one pesticide that is easy to apply, needs only one application, is safe for the environment, and has no ill health effects on humans. It is important to constantly be alert to signs of bed bugs, and educate yourself about how to maintain a bed bug-free home, spot them if they do appear, and find an extermination method that is safe for you and your family.
• Throwing out your mattress does not solve the problem. This is an extremely common misconception. Bed bugs migrate off the bed and hide in cracks and crevices in the room.
• The importance of being alert while traveling. One of the most common places for families to get bed bugs is on vacation. Practical things that you can do to prevent this from happening to you are: inspect your luggage on every step of the trip, inspect your hotel room before use, and launder all clothing as soon as you get home.
• Picking the right pest management company is key. Choosing the right exterminator for you is the best way to make sure that the bed bugs are really gone. Pick an exterminator that has been around for a while. Make sure their personnel are certified and have insurance. Ask if they have an entomologist on staff or on retainer for consultations.
• The government needs to step in and help. With the bed bug situation in this country getting worse by the day, the government needs to step in and help its citizens learn about and solve the problem. They should provide education on identification and common treatment methods. They should provide grant money for research and support individuals in need of assistance who can’t take care of the problem, such as the elderly. It is only with steps like this that we will begin to see a real change in the state of bed bug infestation.

In The Bed Bug Book, based on years of pest control experience, Maestre provides real case studies of people and places where he found bed bugs including: why the people he describes got them, how he exterminated them, and the advice he gave the residents to make sure they didn’t come back.

It is absolutely VITAL that the American public read this book and begin making smarter, more educated choices that will begin minimizing the extent to which bed bugs plague this country! With Maestre’s help, we can all take comfort and pride in living bed bug-free lives!

About the Author:
RALPH H. MAESTRE is a board certified entomologist in urban and industrial entomology. He received his BA in environmental science with a minor in biology. Maestre has been a New York State certified commercial pesticide applicator since 1987. He is currently supervisor of pest control technicians at Magic Exterminating in New York City.

To schedule an interview with Ralph Maestre or excerpt some of the tips inside please contact: Esther Bochner / 212 643 6816 x 224 / ebochner@skyhorsepublishing.com

The Bed Bug Book
The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
By Ralph H. Maestre, board certified entomologist
Skyhorse Publishing Paperback Original
On Sale: February 23rd, 2010
ISBN: 978-1-61608-299-4
Price: $12.95

THE BED BUG BOOK

2011-02-01T13:32:00.000-08:00

The Complete Guide to Prevention and Extermination
By Certified Entomologist Ralph H. Maestre

Magic is proud to announce that our very own Technical Director Ralph H. Meastre BCE has published his first book. All of us have benefited by Ralph's expertise in Termites, Rodents, Ants and especially Bed Bugs.

In the book Ralph goes through Bed Bug case studies detailing how people got them, how Magic eradicated them and the advice given to prevent the return of Bed Bugs.

Ralph will be appearing on Good Morning America February 23, 2011 and will be interviewed around the country on an ABC Satellite Radio Tour February 24, 2011.

Below is the official press release from Skyhorse Publishing:

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
CONTACT: Esther Bochner
ebochner@skyhorsepublishing.com
212 643 6816 x 224

New Rodenticide Label and Regulation Changes Taking Place by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2011-01-07T11:51:00.000-08:00

The following Risk Mitigation has been or will be enacted by the EPA

• Risk Identified:

There has been direct and secondary poisonings of non-target species.
There is well documented 2nd gen. anticoagulant presence in livers of raptors, foxes, wild cats, and deer.

• Mitigation Required:

EPA wants to reduce availability of 2nd gen. anticoagulants to homeowners. EPA will prohibit sale of 2nd gen. products in retail stores. There will be new packaging size requirements for 2nd gen. products. New packaging sizes of 8 lbs for agriculture products / 16 lbs for professionals (PCOs)

Most important is that the rodenticides (2nd Generations) applied outdoors (non-field) use must be within 50 ft. of buildings.

Bait Stations will be changed as well to the following:
Tiered bait station requirements for all “residential consumer” products

• Tier I – Tamper-Resistance and Weather-Resistant
These bait stations are resistant to weather and to tampering by children and dogs. To be used indoors and outdoors (within 50 feet of buildings).

• Tier II – Tamper-Resistant (but not weather resistant)
These bait station are resistant to tampering by children and dogs. To be used indoors only.

• Tier III – Tamper-Resistant for Children Only
These bait stations are resistant to tampering by children. To be used indoors only.

• Tier IV – Tamper-Resistance Unknown
These bait stations may not claim to be tamper resistant. To be used indoors only and only in areas inaccessible to children and pets.

read more at the EPA website http://www.epa.gov/opp00001/reregistration/rodenticides/

Webbing Cloth Moths, Case Making Moths, Hide Beetles by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2010-12-09T08:21:00.000-08:00

Clothes moth larvae feed on wool, feathers, fur, hair, leather, lint, dust, paper, and occasionally cotton, linen, silk, and synthetic fibers. They are especially damaging to fabric stained with beverages, urine, oil from hair, and sweat. Most damage is done to articles left undisturbed for a long time, such as old military uniforms and blankets, wool upholstery, feathered hats, antique dolls and toys, natural bristle brushes, weavings, wall hangings, piano felts, old furs, and especially wool carpets under heavy furniture and clothing in storage.
Damaged fabrics have holes eaten through them by small, white larvae and often have silken cases, lines of silken threads, and fecal pellets over the surface of the materials. Moths are destructive during the larvae stage. Adult "millers" or moths are entirely harmless.

Identification
Adult webbing clothes moths have a wingspread of about 1/2-inch. The body is about 1/4-inch long with wings folded and golden-yellow with a satiny sheen. A tuft of hairs on the head is upright and reddish-gold. Eggs are oval, ivory, and about 1/24-inch long. Larvae are a shiny, creamy white with a brown head, up to 1/2-inch long. The larvae spin long threads and construct tunnels of silk.

Adult case making clothes moths have a 1/2-inch wingspread. Forewings are yellowish-brown, and there are usually three distinct, dark dots on the outer third of each wing. Hind wings are smaller, lighter, and fringed with hair and scales. Eggs are whitish, and larvae are opaque-white with brown heads. The larva spins a small silken case around itself and carries it while feeding.

Casemaking Clothes Moth: Adult and Larva
Adult carpet or tapestry moths are larger than webbing or case making clothes moths at 1/3- to 5/12-inch long with a 3/4-inch wingspread. Adults have white heads, with the first third of the front wings black and the lower two-thirds creamy white. Hind wings are pale gray. Larvae are small, creamy white caterpillars with dark heads.

Life Cycle and Habits
Clothes moths rarely fly to lights at night and instead prefer darkness, such as a closet or storage chest. Any clothes moths fluttering around the house are probably males, because females travel by running, hopping, or trying to hide in the folds of clothing. Female webbing cloth moths lay 40 to 50 eggs that hatch in 4 to 21 days. Larvae like to feed on soiled material, spinning silken mats or tunnels and incorporating textile fragments and bits of fecal pellets. Larvae will wander some distance away from their food source to pupate in crevices. The pupa case is silken with bits of fiber and excrement attached to the outside. The life cycle is about 65 to 90 days.

The case making clothes moth is less common than the webbing clothes moth. Larvae spin a small silken case around themselves as they feed. This cigar-shaped case enlarges as the larva grows. When crawling, the larva's head, thorax, and three pairs of legs, outside the case, drag it along. It does not spin a web of silk over the food material but eats clean-cut holes, not usually in one spot. Females live about 30 days and lay 100 to 300 eggs. The larva stage lasts 50 or more days, and the pupal stage is passed in the case or cocoon. There are about 2 generations a year.

Adult carpet or tapestry moths are rarely found. Females lay 50 to 100 eggs in a lifetime, and the larva develops in about 3 months as it builds silken tubes or burrows through infested materials, such as hair-stuffed furniture, tapestries, old carpets, furs, and feathers.

Clothes moth development is greatly influenced by humidity. About 75-percent relative humidity in a heated, dark room is ideal.

Control Measures

Inspection
Locate the source of infestation before treatment. Examine closets and stored goods for larvae cases, moths, and damage. Larvae prefer to feed in secluded, dark places. Use a flashlight and nail file to check for woolen lint and hair under baseboards, in and under seldom moved upholstered furniture, in air ducts, in carpets at the corners of the room and along edges, in stored clothing, and in other places not readily accessible. Check furs or feathers, such as stuffed birds or animal heads, antique feather beds, or felt in pianos, woolen scrap piles, etc. Adult moths do not feed in fabrics, but may be seen in darkened corners at night.

A new pheromone for the webbing clothes moth is available through Insects Limited Inc.

Prevention
Good housekeeping is critical for preventing or controlling clothes moth damage. Never allow clothing, rugs, etc. to lie in a neglected pile. Regular use of a strong suction vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool to remove lint, hair, and dust from floor cracks, baseboards, air ducts, carpets, and upholstered furniture is necessary. Keep closets and dresser drawers clean. Regularly clean rugs where they fit close to the baseboards and under the quarter round. Inspect stored foods and eliminate bird nests and dead rodents. Launder and dry clean or steam clean clothes and other items before storage. Egg-laying clothes moths are attracted to soiled articles. Ironing will also destroy all stages of clothes moths. Sun, brush, and expose clothing to the weather. Outdoors, bright, hot sunlight, and wind will reduce larvae and damage. Frequent use of woolens and other animal fiber clothing almost assures no damage from clothes moth larvae.

Cedar-lined chests and closets are not 100 percent effective. The natural cedar oil evaporates and a fresh treatment of cedar oil should be applied every two years. Be sure that all cloth goods be dry cleaned, washed, pressed with a hot iron, sunned, or brushed prior to storage in an airtight container with an effective moth repellent.

Constant light illumination in the closet may discourage moths. Use tight-fitting doors. Try suspending wall to floor cotton drapes in front of clothing to keep dust and moths away. Fur storage in cold vaults is effective. Mothproofing when woolens are manufactured may be effective forever, whereas treatments at dry cleaners are less permanent and need to be renewed regularly.

Freezing has been successfully used to control clothes moths. Place fabric in polyethylene bags, squeeze all air out to minimize condensation, and deep freeze the materials for three days. Infested antique objects should be either fumigated or deep frozen by an experienced licensed pest control operator.

Insecticides
It is best not to treat clothing with insecticides due to possible damage to the garments. All cracks and crevices in infested areas should be treated with a residual insecticide. After thoroughly cleaning rugs, rug pads, under heavy furniture, and carpets, especially around the edges, dust under the edges of carpeting, cracks in closets, under baseboard, and molding or other hiding places. Any wall void that might contain old rodent, bird, or insect nests should be drilled and dusted.

Sprays can be used as spot treatments to kill any moths that might alight or wandering larvae. Do not treat clothing. The licensed pest control operator or applicator can use sprays in such places. Infested stuffed furniture and other salvageable commodities should be fumigated by a licensed pest control operator or applicator. Before using any insecticides, always read the label directions and follow safety precautions.

Key to Fabric and Fur Damage
Most scientific keys are used to identify a specific insect. This key is a damage key and can help you determine the pest that is causing the damage to wool, furs, or hides.

Begin with the first pair of questions under
*If you choose answer a., proceed to question 2.
*If answer b. fits the damage instead, proceed to question 3. Continue to work your way through the pairs of questions until you arrive at the pest or problem.

1. a. Silken tubes, silk cases, or silk webbing on the surface of the fabric---2
b. No silk on surface of the fabric---3
2. a. Attached silk tubes with bits of material attached may contain bun-shaped fecal pellets which are the color of the fabric, as well as live larvae. Nap of fabric eaten away in spots, or holes completely through fabric. On fur, hairs are cut at base, leaving clumps of loose fur. Some mats of webbing present---webbing clothes moth
b. Cigar-shaped silk cases with bits of material attached and one end open. Larvae live inside and carry cases with them as they feed. Fabric surface is damaged in irregular furrows or holes completely through fabric. Webbing essentially absent---case-making clothes moth
3. a. Shed larval skins usually present in fabric. Frass present as irregular pellets often the color of the material. In fabric, much surface damage with various penetrating holes---4
b. No larval skins or frass present---7
4. a. In fur, main damage to tips of the hairs, leaving numerous uneven areas but base of hairs remains in place---varied, furniture, and common carpet beetle
b. In fur, hairs are cut at base, become loose and fall out---5
5. a. Hide may be bare where hairs have been cut and fallen out, but no injury to hide itself---black carpet beetle
b. Damage to hide evident---6
6. a. Damage is on the inner surface of the hide. There may be holes and hair may fall out if larvae completely penetrate the hide to the fur side---hide beetle
b. Damage is on the outer surface of the hide, at the base of hairs. Hairs become loose and fall out---cabinet beetle
7. a. Fabric threads pulled, broken, torn, or looped but no loss of threads; exposed ends frayed. In rugs, loops pulled out---mechanical damage
b. Irregular or round holes that might penetrate the fabric. Tips of exposed threads usually curled and charred. In fur, curling of damaged hairs; hide scorched---burns

[Adapted from a key developed by Dr. John V. Osmun, Purdue University]

For more information on Fabric Destroying Pests in New York City, visit Magic Exterminating.

Bed Bug History in New York City 1944 by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2010-10-15T11:42:00.000-07:00

First a little history lesson in history, from the web site located at http://www.newyorkvsbedbugs.org/. Renee Cornea worked on the bed bug committee for the City of New York and is a private citizen. She has worked endless hours to create and maintain the web site. It is by far one of the best informational site on the subject.

I hope you enjoy this little taste of information. Notice the date!

New York vs Bed Bugs (1944) Posted on April 24, 2009 by Renee Corea

“NEW YORK THIS SUMMER HAD PLAGUE OF BEDBUGS” St. Petersburg Times, 10/10/1944:

New Yorkers suffered not only from heat and humidity this summer—the city had a plague of bedbugs.

Congested areas all over the country had the same complaint. The 1944 season was hailed as one of “the worst” to date by the insects’ victims; one of “the best” by the dozens of exterminating companies that rushed to their rescue.

The Sameth Exterminating Company, Inc., one of the largest in the metropolitan area, reported calls averaging 120 a day during the height of the heat—not including contract customers such as hotels, theatres and warehouses.

There is a familiar diagnosis:

One of the main drawbacks in combating the pests, exterminators say, is that many people are ashamed to admit their presence.

“They think bedbugs are a disgrace,” one exterminator said, “but anybody can pick them up anywhere—in theatres, subways, busses, trains. The thing to do is get rid of them and then forget it.”

The exterminators agree that there is no sure way of preventing bedbugs.

And a working bed bug savvy meter:

[A]ny exterminator who walks into a house and sees a lot of coats lying across a bed will throw up his hands in horror.

“That’s practically planting the bugs,” they shudder.

And then a simple and reasonable hope, or perhaps the DDT PR machine of 1944:

Dr. Austin Frishman Lasting Legacy

2010-10-14T07:46:00.000-07:00

Magic would like to thank Dr. Frishman for his vision, guidance and assistance.

read the article at Pest Management Professional September 2010

Fungus Beetles by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2010-08-19T07:05:00.000-07:00

Common Name:
Foreign Grain Beetle
Hairy Fungus Beetle
Plaster or Minute Brown Scavenger Beetle
Sigmoid Fungus Beetle
Acute-angled Fungus Beetle
Scientific Name:
Ahasverus advena (Waltl)
Mycetophagus punctatus Say
Melanophthalma americana Mannerheim
Cryptophagus varus Woodroffe & Coombs
Cryptophagus acutangulus Gyllenhal

Fungus beetle is a general term covering several different beetles associated with damp, humid conditions where fungi, molds and mildew occur. When new homes are built, moist uncured lumber and/or freshly plastered or papered walls that become covered with molds, attract these beetles. Some occur in sawdust left in wall voids after construction. They often build heavy populations throughout late summer and early fall. These mold-feeding beetles sometimes are found in decaying plant material, woodpiles, mammal, ant or termite nests, damp cereals, grains, herbs, spices, cheese, jam, jellies, fibers and carpeting, especially in cellars. Attracted by lights, these small beetles, can crawl or fly through window or door screens, and then wander aimlessly. Heavy populations may first show up trapped in bathtubs, sinks or around lamps and TV sets. They are simply a nuisance by their presence and do not bite, sting, spread human diseases nor damage wood, food, fabric, etc.

Identification
The foreign grain beetle is camel-brown colored and about 1/16-inch long with a conspicuous rounded lobe or "knob" on the four corners of the thorax (area between the head and wing covers). The body is covered with dense pubescence (short, fine hairs) and dimple-like punctures with clubbed antennae. Other fungus beetles are less than 1/12-inch long with body color varying from yellowish to black. Also, most have punctures on the body and clubbed antennae. A good quality hand lens or microscope is necessary to see these characteristics.

Life Cycle and Habits
Most complaints of these nuisance beetles occur in late July, August, and September. Beetles often become quite abundant, especially after a period of rainy weather. However, development from egg to adult depends on temperature. Some beetles complete their life cycle in 25 to 36 days at 75 deg F., in 54 days at 65 deg F., or up to five months and longer at lower temperatures. Beetles are attracted to lights and feed entirely on the spores and hyphae of fungi. Later, eggs are laid on food material such as poorly-seasoned green lumber, wet plaster and wall board, moldy grains, etc. Larvae develop in the molds, maturing to adults later. Sometimes, stored foods may become contaminated from cast skins and excreta. Also, infestations are associated with poor ventilation, high humidity, plumbing leaks, etc.

Control Measures
Most infestations are temporary and self-limiting, but their presence is objectionable to many homeowners.

Prevention
Often it is difficult to locate the source of infestation since beetles may be feeding on fungi associated with neglected grains, yeast, moldy flowers, wall voids with rodent and insect nests, decaying plant materials, moldy wallpaper, freshly plastered walls, around moist window cases or poor plumbing. Any action taken to dry out damp conditions supporting fungal growth, essential to these beetles, will greatly reduce or eliminate populations. Most homes dry out naturally within a year or two, and the fungi disappears along with the beetles. Usually adequate artificial heating and ventilation will stop infestations. Periods of dry weather with relatively low humidity (below 60 percent) will reduce numbers. Be sure that dry foods are stored in insect-proof containers (glass, heavy plastic or metal) ideally with screw-type lids free of mold. A strong suction vacuum cleaner with proper attachments will collect many beetles.

Insecticides
If moisture problems cannot be corrected, commercial household labeled fungicides may be effective in eliminating fungal growth in selected areas. Household aerosol sprays of pyrethrins will kill many beetles when applied in crevices under baseboards, around windows, doors and lights. Repeat treatments will be needed to control newly emerging adults. Residual contact sprays will help give control.

Dust formulations are applied into wall voids and other hard to reach places can be effective. Before using any insecticide, always READ THE LABEL and follow directions and safety precautions.

Reference: Ohio State Pest fact Sheets

If you've noticed problems with Fungus Beetles in your New York City business or residence, contact Magic Exterminators today to resolve the issue.

Backswimmers & Water Striders by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2010-08-02T07:07:00.000-07:00

Water Strider

Adults are between 5/16 to 5/8 inch long, dull to grayish or reddish brown above and silvery gray on the underside of the body. Many have long slender bodies with long, slender legs and antennae. The front legs are short and modified for grasping while the middle and hind legs are long, like stilts with claws. These insects creep on the surface of running water or pools in a slow deliberate gait where they feed on live and dead insects, crustacea and other organisms. They overwinter as adults. Long, cylindrical eggs are laid during spring and summer in parallel rows glued to objects at the water's edge. Adults are called "skaters" or "Jesus Bugs," apparently for their ability to walk on water of ponds, lakes and streams.

These insects are found in residential pools and will bite. The customer would have to shock (use chlorine) the pool. We do not treat for them.

Backswimmers - Notonectidae

Scientific Classification
Notonectidae or backswimmers is a family of insects of the Hemiptera order. Back swimmers, or Greater Water Boatmen are hemipteran bugs. They are named backswimmers because they are aquatic predators that swim upside down. They are up to 15 mm in size. They are similar to corixidae, but can be separated by differences in their dorsal-ventral coloration, front legs, and behavior. Their dorsum convex is light colored without cross striations. Their front tarsi are not scoop-shaped and hind legs fringed for swimming.

The size of air bubble that provide buoyancy changes as the nitrogen dissolve into the blood and the oxygen is used in respiration. Notonectidae carry extra oxygen supply using haemoglobin in their abdomen. This helps them regulate the size of its air bubble and the concentration of oxygen inside it. [1]

Backswimmer swimming on its back

The main genus of backswimmers is Notonecta- streamlined, deep-bodied bugs up to 16 mm long, green, brown or yellowish in colour. As the common name indicates, these aquatic insects swim on their backs, vigorously paddling with their long, hair-fringed hind legs.

Backswimmers are predators and attack prey as large as tadpoles and small fish, and can inflict a painful bite on human finger. They inhabit still freshwater, e.g. lakes, pools, marshes, and are sometimes found in garden ponds. They can fly well and so migrate easily to new habitats.

The Common Backswimmer is Notonecta glauca, widespread in the United Kingdom and Europe. Another species is N. maculata, distinguished by mottled brick-coloured forewings.

This is another insect found in residential pool and may bite clients. Again the homeowners must shock (use Chlorine). We do not treat for them.

a half-submerged Common Backswimmer (Notonecta glauca)

References
Chinery, M. (1986) Collins Guide to the Insects of Britain & Western Europe. Collins. ISBN 0 00 219137-7.
Fitter, R. & Manuel, R. (1986) Collins Field Guide to Freshwater Life. Collins. ISBN 0 00 219143-1.
Hungerford, H. B. (1933) The genus Notonecta of the world. U. Kansas Sci. Bull. 21: 5-195.

External links
Close-up photo by J. Hlasek
Retrieved from "http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Notonectidae"

Argentine ant — Linepithema humile Subfamily: Dolichodorinae

2010-07-23T06:36:00.000-07:00

Identifying characteristics

Workers are all the same size, small, 1/8-inch long
· Uniformly dull brown

· Petiole with 1 erect node

· Thorax uneven in shape when viewed from side
· Musty odor emitted when crushed Behavior
· Feed on sweets, fresh fruit, and buds of some plants
· Tend honeydew-producing species

· Forage for sweets and oils in homes
· Travel rapidly in distinctive trails along sidewalks, up sides of buildings, along branches of trees and shrubs, along baseboards, and under edges of carpets
· Colonies may split in spring and summer when queen and workers move to new site; not antagonistic toward each other

Nest type and size
· Outdoors in soil, under wood, slabs, debris, mulch, or in branches and cavities of trees and shrubs
· Shallow, 1- to 2-inch deep mounds in open, often disturbed habitats, either moist or dry
· Millions of ants per colony with multiple queens and many sub-colonies
Statewide IPM Program, Agriculture and Natural Resources, University of California The Argentine Ant is confirmed by to be established here in the New York City and Long Island area. I have several specimens brought in by you the techs. If you crush one and it does not have a smell, then there is a strong case that you have this ant at the location.

Treatment
Begin by using only the baits and gels. Use a lot since the nests or colonies are very large at times. The use of Phantom, Transport GHP or other non-repellents may be used along the outside perimeter according to label instructions. Make sure that all entry points found get treated. A follow-up visit may be needed. These ants live in very large colonies. They may also bypass ground treatment and enter home near the roof line. A good inspection with a binocular is required.

For more information on this ant and other insects, visit our New York City Pest Identification Guide for pictures, details, and descriptions. Magic Exterminating can handle all of your pest control needs in NYC.

Magic's Three Entomologist

2010-06-21T10:26:00.000-07:00

Magic has a staff full of Entomologist led by Ralph H. Maestre BCE (center), Michael Morales ACE (left), and Anthony DeVito ACE (right).

With over 72 years of experience and education there is no problem to big or to small that they cannot solve.

They all agree on why pest control is such a great job: Every day is a new adventure and that they enjoy meeting all the different people.

Anthony says Termites are the most fascinating, Michael has a thing for all of the various Ants and Ralph is a fan of Tiger Beetles and Dragon Flies.

I finally asked about their hardest challenge:

When the Bed bug epidemic emerged I had to educate myself on how to control them in diverse situations like a welfare hotel. The industry did not have a standard protocol at that time so I experimented with all the tools at our disposal and developed a highly effective treatment plan that works in every situation- Michael

Termites living on the third floor of a house independent of the soil. The house had been treated for 15 years by 3 different companies. It took some time but I found them in the attic getting water from a leaking chimney in the middle of the house. - Anthony

The hardest challenge I have faced is trying to change people’s habits. Individuals always understand the importance of sanitation and exclusion, it is trying to make them take care of it and maintain it that is the problem. - Ralph

Thanks guys...

Questions a Tech should be Asking

2010-06-07T11:56:00.000-07:00

The questions a tech should be asking themselves on each job.
By Ralph H. Maestre, BCE

Which pest am I dealing with?
Proper identification of a pest is important for obvious reasons. It helps you decide how to approach the job. The miss-identification of termites and ants will cause you headaches. With that said, many pest are approached using the same techniques, an example would be many of the store product pests. With stored product pests you need to know the species, this will help you narrow down to the infested product, but the treatment will be similar. You will use pheromone traps and direct treatment to infested area. Proper preparation is also important.

Why is the pest there?
All animals need four essential items to survive: water, food, harborage, and temperature. When each of these is removed, the animal either leaves or dies. Notice pesticides are not mentioned.

What do I need to do now?
Do I inspect? Do I vacuum? Do I treat? Do I monitor? Do I clean? Etc.
Inspection is a key, this will allow you to verify the infestation and where it may be coming from. Once you decide on a treatment plan, you may need to schedule a follow-up to verify that your plan worked. This is important when a carpenter ant nest has not been located. It is not necessary for all pests; an example would be for yellowjackets and other stinging insect, the customer will let you know if the job was successful after 3 days. Scheduling a call-back for a customer like this will waste time and money.

What do I do to prevent the problem from recurring?
Sometimes this is simple and other times it is very difficult to get a client to understand the importance of repairs or exclusion work that may be needed. Sometimes it is sanitation that needs to be improved. This must be documented for quality control, to prevent liability, or preventing losing the account. We may be able to help in performing the repairs or sanitation. Ask you field supervisor or service manager for help.

So to review, every pest needs four things to survive; water, food, harborage, and temperature. The adjustment of any of these will reduce the pest problem. All four and the pest will leave or die.Four questions should always be asked on each job. Which pest is it? Why is the pest present? What do I do now? What do I do to prevent the problem from recurring? Approach each job this way and answer each question correctly and you will solve the pest problem and have a very happy client.

For more tips on pest identification, visit Magic Exterminating, a NYC Pest Control company, and look at our pest identification guide.

Indianmeal Moth By Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2010-05-14T07:12:00.000-07:00

Common Name: Indianmeal Moth Scientific Name: Plodia interpunctella (Hubner)

The Indian Meal Moth is considered the most troublesome of the grain-infesting moths in New York. Damage is caused by the larvae spinning silken threads as they feed and crawl, thus webbing food particles together. Besides infesting all cereal food products and whole grains, larvae also feed on a wide variety of foods and feeds such as dried fruits, powdered milk, cornmeal, flour, raisins, prunes, nuts, chocolate, candies, health food and seeds, bird seed, dog and cat food, fish food, graham crackers, dried red peppers, pastas, etc.

Sometimes mistaken as clothes moths, homeowners first notice small moths flying in a zigzag fashion around rooms (kitchens and pantries) in the home. These moths fly mostly at night and are attracted to lights and may appear in the living room near or in front of television sets. Occasionally, the larvae or "white worms with black heads" crawl up walls and suspend from the ceiling attached to a single silken thread. Other times, a few larvae may be found in a food package along with unsightly webbing, cast skins and frass (fecal pellets). It is repulsive to the homeowner and costly to the manufacturer. Packages of whole wheat, graham flour and corn meal are often infested. Most complaints in New York occur during the months of July and August, but often appear in the Spring as the weather warms above 55º. Some adult moths do fly into the home during summer months through open doors or windows, but most "hitchhike" inside in packaged goods and groceries. Not only homes, but restaurants, grocery stores, warehouses, pet stores, seed companies, mills etc., become infested.

Identification
Adult moths are about 3/8-inch (8 to 10mm) long when at rest and have a wing spread of about 1/2 to 3/4 inch (18 to 20mm). When viewed from above with the wings folded over the back, the outer 2/3 of the wing appears reddish-brown or bronze colored "at the wing tips" while the inner 2/3 of the wing "at the basal portion" is light gray to ochre-yellow. Also, the head and thorax are reddish-brown and the hind wings gray. The larvae or "caterpillars" are about 2/3 inch (12.5mm) when mature. Brown-headed larvae are dirty white, sometimes tinged pink or green. Larvae are quite active and molt four to seven times before pupating. Pupae are reddish-brown and about 3/8-inch long. Eggs are grayish to dirty white and from 0.3 to 0.5mm long.

Life Cycle and Habits
The female moth lays between 60 and 300 eggs, singly or in clusters, on or near the foodstuffs. Eggs hatch in 2 to 14 days with larvae or "tiny whitish caterpillars" dispersing within a few hours. Larvae move to foodstuffs, and feed in or near a tunnel-like case of frass and silk which they web together. Some food becomes matted with silken webbing. The larval stage is the feeding or "pest stage," and may range from 2 to 41 weeks, depending on the temperature. In stored grains, feeding is done at the surface. When ready to pupate, mature larvae leave their tubes and spin a silken cocoon. They often migrate or "wander" a considerable distance from their food source before finding the pupation site, often in cracks and crevices. Some crawl up walls to where the wall and ceiling meet or crawl to the top of the cupboard to spin the cocoon in which they pupate and from which new adult moths emerge. Mating occurs and the life cycle is repeated. The life cycle may range from the shortest period of four weeks to the longest of 300 days. Under good conditions, the entire life cycle requires six to eight weeks. However, in cold climates, larvae overwinter and pupate in March. Moths emerge in April. Generations overlap as the season progresses. There may be five generations per year in some locations. The life cycle depends on temperature, taking two to six months in temperate zones and three to four weeks in warm climates.

Control Measures
1-Before purchasing, examine foods such as milled cereal products, flour and dried fruit for infestations. Examine broken and damaged packages and boxes to avoid bringing stored pests accidentally into the home. Check the packaging date to ensure freshness.

2-Purchase seldom-used foods in small quantities to prevent long storage periods of a month or more. Susceptible material stored for six months or more, especially during the hot summer months, has the possibility of developing into serious infestations. Store susceptible foods in insect-proof containers of glass, metal or plastic ware with tight-fitting lids, ideally screw-type. Highly susceptible foods, such as spices, can be kept in the refrigerator and other foods in the freezer. Always use older packages first, and inspect frequently to avoid any spillage which might attract insects. Properly ventilate the storage area to discourage moisture-loving pests.

3-Foods of questionable infestations or even lightly infested can be supercooled or superheated. Place exposed or suspect foods in a freezer at 0°F. for four to seven days or in a microwave oven for five minutes or in a shallow pan or tray in the oven at 140°F for one hour or 120°F for two hours. Spread the material thinly to permit effective cold or heat penetration to kill all life stages of the pest. If in the oven, stir food periodically to prevent possible scorching. Dried fruits can be placed in cheese cloth bags and dipped into boiling water for six to ten seconds to kill external pests. However, seeds saved for planting may have the germination reduced after superheating or cooling. Sifting the food material will remove possible insect fragments and any remaining will not cause harm if consumed. After insects are killed, contaminated food might be used outdoors during winter months for bird feed.

4-Careful sanitation is the best method to avoid stored product pests. After removing all food, food packages, utensils, dishes, etc. from the cupboard, shelves or storage area, use a strong suction vacuum cleaner with proper attachments to clean up all spilled foods (toaster crumbs, cornmeal, bits of pet food, raisins, etc.) from cracks and crevices, behind and under appliances and furniture. Pull out heavy appliances from the wall and scrub with soap and hot water. The ability of these insects to find a small amount of food and survive is amazing. After shelves are thoroughly dry, cover with clean, fresh paper or foil before replacing with food or cooking utensils. Remove and destroy any cocoons found in cupboards and other sites.

5-Locate the source of infestation and quickly get rid of it. Dispose of heavily infested foods in wrapped, strong, plastic bags or in sealed containers for garbage disposal service or bury deep in the soil if permitted and practical. If detection is made early, it may be the only material infested and the problem is solved. Be sure to carefully examine seldom-used foods, especially in least disturbed storage areas. One can spread suspected foods on a tray to determine whether infestation is widespread. Inspect unopened cardboard boxes since pests can chew into these boxes and plastic inserts.

6-Pheromone traps are commercially available for inspection, monitoring, and pinpointing infestations of adult Indianmeal moths. Insects use pheromones to communicate with each other, and are natural compounds created in the insect body. Many have been isolated in the laboratory and now used to lure insects into sticky traps.

Adult moths live only five to seven days with their major function to reproduce. Male moths are attracted to pheromone scent (sex-attractant). Traps can be hung indoors next to the ceiling, behind shelves, etc. to capture moths on a sticky board. In food warehouses, some use five traps per 1,000 square feet. A few well-placed traps can detect moths. About one in eight Indianmeal moths that approach a pheromone trap enters it. The trap alone is a "monitoring tool" not a control method.

If you suspect you have an Indian Meal Moth problem, contact Magic Exterminating to see how our New York City Pest Control procedures can help stop the infestation, and prevent future problems..

Reference: HYG-2089-97 William F. Lyon Ohio State Fact Sheet

Eastern Subterranean Termites by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2010-03-31T13:35:00.000-07:00

Latin Name: Order Isoptera

Appearance:
Four "castes" of a termite colony: workers are approximately 1/4-inch long, light-colored and wingless; soldiers have elongated heads with mandibles; supplementary reproductives are light-colored and wingless or have very short, nonfunctional wings.

Habit:
Live in colonies underground, from which they build tunnels in search of food; able to reach food above the ground level by building mud tubes; dependent on moisture for survival.

Diet:
Wood and other cellulose material.

Reproduction:
Different rates of growth from egg stage to adult depending on individual species; one queen per colony, which can lay tens of thousands of eggs in its lifetime, but most eggs are laid by supplementary reproductives in an established colony.

Other:
Termites cause over $2 billion in damages each year. Subterranean termites cause 95% of all termite damage in North America. Colonies can contain up to 1 million members.

Termite Baiting

The Sentricon® Colony Elimination System is manufactured by Dow AgroSciences LLC (Indianapolis, IN; 1-800-678-2388; www.sentricon.com/). The Sentricon® System is sold only through pest management firms that have been authorized and trained by Dow AgroSciences. This termite bait was the first to be commercially introduced into the United States and has been marketed since 1995. It is labeled to be used as the sole measure to achieve termite control, without a supplementary soil treatment.

The active ingredient (toxicant) in the Sentricon® System is a slow-acting chemical, 0.5% hexaflumuron (Recruit® II). During 2003, hexaflumuron is slated to be replaced with noviflumuron (Recruit® III and IV). Both of these chemicals are chitin synthesis inhibitors (CSIs) that disrupt the termites' normal molting process, causing them to die in the process of shedding their skin. CSIs can achieve their effects because worker termites continue to molt periodically throughout their life and they comprise the majority of the colony. Furthermore, workers feed other colony members, which starve as the worker population is depleted.

The Sentricon® System is based on a multi-step process that entails monitoring to identify stations that contain active termites, delivery of the toxic bait, and on-going monitoring to detect new termite infestations. Termites are detected by inserting plastic in-ground monitoring stations into the soil at intervals around the building perimeter and at conducive sites. Each in-ground Sentricon® station consists of a cylindrical green tube (10 inches deep by 2 inches wide) with slits for termite access; it is covered by a flat, round disc (locking cap assembly) that lies flush with the soil surface. Initially, two pieces of untreated wood are placed inside each station to serve as the monitoring device. Several of the stations are pre-baited in auxiliary stations during the initial installation process. Once termites have been found in the wood monitors, a treated bait tube is substituted. Termites are carefully dislodged from the monitoring wood and placed into the bait tube where they begin feeding on the bait as they tunnel through it and then eventually reunite with their colony members in the soil. In the process, they deposit trail pheromones (chemical scents) that promote recruitment of other nest mates to the bait. All stations around the structure are inspected on a continuing basis and bait delivery continues until no more live termites are found. Termite elimination is considered to be achieved if no termites are evident for three consecutive months, excluding inclement winter weather that may cause termites to be absent. Bait tubes subsequently are removed and untreated wood is once again inserted and monitored. On-going monitoring at less frequent intervals is useful to detect termites that have re-infested the area.

Above ground bait stations complement the Sentricon® System. These are tan, rectangular boxes containing two treated paper rolls (Recruit® AG) that are positioned above ground over active termite shelter tubes. The use of aboveground stations in combination with in-ground stations can enhance delivery of the bait toxicant to the colony.
The Sentricon® System has undergone extensive evaluation throughout the United States. A large number of field trials with Sentricon® have demonstrated elimination of subterranean termites.

Carpenter Bees by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2010-03-31T08:25:00.000-07:00

Carpenter bees are so named because they excavate galleries in wood to create nest sites. They do not consume wood. Rather, they feed on pollen and nectar. Carpenter bees are important pollinators of flowers and trees. Carpenter bees typically are just nuisance pests that cause cosmetic. When left unchecked the damage may become structural. Considerable wood damage can result from many generations of carpenter bees enlarging existing galleries in wood.

Large carpenter bees belong to the genus Xylocopa. Two native species, Xylocopa virginica and Xylocopa micans, occur in the eastern United States. There also are a number of native carpenter bees in the western United States. This fact sheet primarily pertains to X. virginica, which has the common name of carpenter bee.

Figure 1. Carpenter bee. (Courtesy of Kansas State University.)

Identification

Carpenter bees are large and robust. X. virginica is three-fourths to one-inch long, black, with a metallic sheen. The thorax is covered with bright yellow, orange, or white hairs, and the upper side of the abdomen is black, glossy, and bare (Figure 1). The female has a black head, and the male has white markings on the head. Carpenter bees have a dense brush of hairs on the hind legs.

Carpenter bees somewhat resemble bumble bees, except bumble bees have dense yellow hairs on the abdomen and large pollen baskets on the hind legs. Various species of bumble bees and carpenter bees are similar in size. Bumble bees typically nest in the ground whereas carpenter bees nest in wood.

Life History
Carpenter bees are solitary insects that do not form colonies. Male and female carpenter bees overwinter as adults within their old nest gallery. Adults emerge in the spring (April and early May) and mate. There is one generation per year.

The males are not long lived, and the female carpenter bee prepares the nest. Gallery construction is a time- and energy-consuming process, and the female will preferentially refurbish an old nest rather than excavate a new one. When constructing a new nest, the female uses her strong jaws (mandibles) to excavate a clean-cut, round nest entrance hole on the lateral surface of wood in an exposed or unexposed location. This hole is slightly less than 1/2-inch wide, approximately the diameter of her body. She bores into the wood perpendicular to the grain for one to two inches then makes a right angle turn and excavates along the wood grain for four to six inches to create a gallery (tunnel). She excavates the gallery at the rate of about one inch in six days.

The female bee creates a series of provisioned brood cells in the excavated gallery. The larval provision consists of a mixture of pollen and regurgitated nectar formed into a ball. The female forms a food ball at the far end of an excavated gallery, lays an egg on top of the mass, and then walls off the brood cell with a plug of chewed wood pulp. A female often creates six to 10 partitioned brood cells in a linear row in one gallery, and she dies soon thereafter. Larvae feed on the pollen/nectar food mass, which is sufficient food for them to develop to the adult stage.

The life cycle (egg, larva, pupa, adult) is completed in approximately seven weeks, although developmental time may vary depending on the temperature. The new adults typically remain in their gallery for several weeks then chew through the cell partitions and venture outside in late August. They collect and store pollen in the existing galleries, but also spend much of their time just huddled together inside a gallery. These new adults hibernate in galleries because they require shelter during the winter. They then emerge the following spring.

Habits
Carpenter bees nest in a wide range of softwoods and hardwoods, particularly if the wood is weathered. Eastern species of carpenter bees prefer softwoods such as cedar, redwood, cypress, pine, and fir. The bees can more easily tunnel through woods that are soft and that have a straight grain. Western species of carpenter bees often nest in oak, eucalyptus, and redwood.

Carpenter bees attack structural timbers and other wood products, including fence posts, utility poles, firewood, arbors, and lawn furniture. In buildings, carpenter bees nest in bare wood near roof eaves and gables, fascia boards, porch ceilings, decks, railings, siding, shingles, shutters, and other weathered wood. These bees avoid wood that is well painted or covered with bark.

The carpenter bee entrance hole in wood may not necessarily be in an exposed area. For example, the inner lip of fascia boards is a common site of attack. Nail holes, exposed saw cuts, and unpainted wood are attractive sites for the bees to start their excavations.

Figure 2. Carpenter bee entrance hole in fascia.
Figure 3. Carpenter bee staining on siding below the fascia.

Figure 4. Carpenter bee gallery exposed in wood.

Economic Importance
Despite their beneficial aspect of being important pollinators of many trees and flowers, carpenter bees also may be nuisance pests around structures. Carpenter bees are noisy, which may be bothersome. These large bees create alarm when they dive-bomb or fly erratically around humans. In actuality, these are male bees, which are territorial but harmless because they lack a stinger. Only females have a stinger. Female carpenter bees are docile and are reported to sting only if handled.

Carpenter bees create a nuisance by excavating round entry holes in wood (Figure 2) and depositing yellowish to brownish streaks of excrement and pollen on surfaces below entry holes (Figure 3). They also produce coarse sawdust from their borings. The carpenter bee gallery system is confined within the wood (Figure 4) and hence is not visible.

Carpenter bee damage to wood initially is minor, and carpenter bees seldom cause consequential structural damage. However, their repeated colonization of the same wood can eventually cause considerable wood damage. Carpenter bees preferentially refurbish and enlarge an existing tunnel instead of boring a new one, and a gallery can extend for 10 feet if used by many carpenter bees over the years.

Carpenter bees sometimes construct new tunnels near old ones, with infestations persisting for several years. This complex system of tunnels can result in extensive damage to wood. Wood replacement is necessary when the strength of structural members, posts, poles, and other wood products is reduced due to carpenter bee damage.

Carpenter bees also may be indirectly responsible for unsightly wood damage when woodpeckers riddle the wood with holes searching for the developing carpenter bees to feed upon.

Integrated Pest Management
When dealing with carpenter bees, it is preferable to locate tunnel entrances during the daytime, but treat after dark on a cool evening when carpenter bees are less active. Wear protective clothing to avoid any stings during treatment.

Prevention
Keep all exposed wood surfaces well painted with a -polyurethane or oil-base paint to deter attack by carpenter bees. Periodically inspect painted surfaces, because the coatings will begin to deteriorate due to weathering, leaving exposed wood that the bees then can easily attack. Wood stains will not prevent damage. Consider using aluminum, asbestos, asphalt, vinyl siding, and similar non-wood materials that are not damaged by carpenter bees. Seal existing gallery entrance holes to discourage carpenter bees that are looking for potential nesting sites.

Mechanical Measures
A non-insecticidal management approach is to deny carpenter bees access to their galleries by sealing each entrance hole. Thoroughly plug the hole with caulking compound, wood putty, or a wooden dowel affixed with wood glue. If possible, also fill the entire gallery system with a sealant. Carpenter bee galleries are a critical resource, since the bees spend much of their time inside a gallery, and they require its protective conditions to survive the winter. Bees that are trapped inside a caulked gallery typically will not chew out due to behavioral constraints. This barrier approach has promise for reducing future carpenter bee infestations.

In new nests, the single female often can be swatted and killed, or she can be captured and crushed or otherwise destroyed. Larvae and pupae can be killed by inserting a sturdy wire into the entrance hole and probing into the gallery as deeply as possible.

Insecticides
A chemical treatment using an appropriately labeled insecticide can protect wood for short periods, especially in the spring and summer when carpenter bee nesting activity is apparent. Dust formulations typically provide residual effects and are effective due to the nature of carpenter bee gallery construction. Precisely inject the dust directly into each nest entrance hole and as deep into the tunnel as possible and also apply it to the adjacent wood surface. Wait for a few days before plugging entrance holes since adult bees should be allowed to pass freely to distribute the insecticide within the galleries. Newly emerged bees also will contact the dust when attempting to leave their gallery. The most popular dusts used are Tempo D (cyfluthrin), Drione and Tri-Die (pyrethrins), and Apicide (carbaryl).

For use as a preventive, an insecticide should be applied to wood in early spring before carpenter bees begin excavating nests. The insecticide kills the bees that contact it on the wood’s surface. However, a preventive approach has limitations because of the difficulty in applying a chemical to all exposed wood on the house where bees could nest. Furthermore, such insecticides usually degrade in a matter of weeks or months so repeated applications are needed to maintain a lethal dose of the insecticide. Some pest management companies report good results against carpenter bees by spraying wood with a microencapsulated pyrethroid, Demand CS insecticide (registered for use only by licensed professional applicators), which contains the active ingredient lambda-cyhalothrin. A number of other pyrethroids (bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, permethrin, etc.) also are labeled for use against carpenter bees.
Insecticides that act as stomach poisons, such as borates, typically are ineffective against carpenter bees, which do not ingest the wood that they excavate.

Compiled From Susan C. JonesAssociate Professor, Entomology; Extension Specialist, Household and Structural Pests: Ohio State Pest Fact Sheets

Clover Mites by Ralph H. Maestre, BCE

2010-03-26T11:56:00.000-07:00

Clover mites sometimes invade homes in enormous numbers, in early spring and late autumn, overrunning floors, walls, drapes, window sills and furniture, even occasionally getting into beds and clothing. They may become troublesome in hospitals, nursing homes, apartments, food processing facilities, etc. If crushed, they leave a reddish stain quite noticeable on linens, curtains, walls and woodwork. They are a nuisance by their presence but do not bite humans or animals, transmit disease nor feed on household furnishings or pantry supplies. Skin irritation may be caused in sensitive persons. They live outdoors, feeding on various plants.

Identification
Clover mites are about 1/30 inch long (smaller than a pinhead), oval-shaped arachnids, reddish-brown to olive to pale orange or sometimes green-brown after feeding. They are eight-legged with the front pair of legs very long, protruding forward at the head. These front legs are sometimes mistaken as antennae or feelers. There are featherlike plates on the body and fan-shaped like hairs along the back edge of the body when viewed under a magnifying glass. Young are smaller and bright red. Also, eggs are bright red. Crawling mites are sluggish, slow-moving and normally invade the home where the sun is warmest at south, southwest and east side of the house.

Life Cycle and Habits
Clover mites develop from unfertilized eggs (no males needed). Females lay about 70 eggs each, singly or in masses, in cracks and faults in concrete foundations, in mortar crevices, between the building walls, under loose bark of trees, and other protected places. Eggs lay dormant during the hot summer, hatching in early autumn when temperatures fall below 85 degrees F, followed by two nymphal or resting stages and the adult. Each stage lasts two to six days, and the life cycle is completed outdoors in one month with two or more generations per year. Mites may live one to seven months depending on climatic conditions. Most mites over winter as eggs, but all life stages can be present. Over wintering eggs hatch in early spring. Mites can be found infesting homes from November through June and again in the autumn months. They are sensitive to temperature changes (most active between 50 to 75 degrees F) and tend to move upward as the sun warms the surface above them. They may invade the home during the summer if host plants are dried up or cut off. Hosts include grasses (heavy feeding gives a silvered appearance), clover, dandelion, shepherd's purse, strawberry and iris, to name a few. Most heavy outbreaks occur in early spring in well-fertilized lawns growing close to the house foundation on the sunny side of the house; although in the fall, thousands of clover mites may congregate on vegetation around homes and on foundation walls, crawling into protected places as cold weather arrives. They hide under shingles, under siding, behind window and door casings or even indoors, becoming active again in the spring.

Control Measures

Prevention
Remove all grass and weeds (lush vegetation) from around the house foundation perimeter, leaving a bare strip 18 to 24 inches wide, especially on the south, southwest and east sides of the building. Mites will not cross-bare, loose soil as readily as grassy surfaces touching the foundation. This bare strip can be planted with flowers such as geranium, zinnia, wallflowers, marigold, salvia, rose, chrysanthemum and petunia, or shrubs such as juniper, spruce, arborvitae, yew or barberry, which are unattractive to these mites deterring buildup and migration. An application of pea gravel in the strip will also discourage mite invasion. Some apply bark mulch, stone or black plastic. Be sure to seal cracks and gaps or other points of entry with caulking compound, putty and weather stripping around foundations, windows and doors. Use tight fitting screens on windows and doors.

Insecticides
It is best to use a perimeter spray barrier around the outside of the house during the mite invasion period. Outdoors, spray the foundation, exterior walls up to the bottom of the first floor windows, and always follow label directions. Treatment from the foundation out into the grass should be performed when permitted. Spray the foundation and walls and the vegetation until it is thoroughly wet. Materials labeled for this use include pyrethrins (Exciter, Microcare, Pyrethrum, Pyrenone). Granules may be used if labeled. Some additional products may be used indoors and out are PT 221L, PI, Steri-fab, and Tri-Die. We must read the labels carefully for treatment procedures. A product like Transport GHP may be use outdoors only. Spot applications can be made to cracks and crevices at baseboards, around windows and doors and between windows and screens with labeled materials. Before using any insecticides, be sure to read the label and follow directions and safety precautions.

Clover mites can be a huge problem in New York City and Long Island this spring. Its best to contact a professional exterminating company in your area to resolve any issues.

Carpenter Ants by Ralph H. Maestre, BCE

2010-03-08T11:31:00.000-08:00

Carpenter ants are a nuisance by their presence when found in parts of the home such as the kitchen, bathroom, living room and other quarters. When 20 or more large winged and/or wingless ants are found indoors, in the daytime near one location, it is possible that the colony is well established in the home and the nest may have been extended into sound wood, sometimes causing structural damage. They do not eat wood, but often remove quantities of it to expand their nest size. However, if only one to two large wingless ants are erratically crawling, they may simply be foraging for food with the nest located outside. Outdoors, they are frequently seen running over plants and tree trunks or living in moist, partly rotten wood stumps. Nevertheless, carpenter ant inquiries rank first over all other household/structural pests in many states.

Identification

Carpenter ants are among the largest ants found in homes and live in colonies containing three castes consisting of winged and wingless queens, winged males and different sized workers. Winged males are much smaller than winged queens. Wingless queens measure 5/8 inch, winged queens 3/4 inch to the tips of their folded brownish wings, small minor workers 1/4 inch and large major workers 1/2 inch. Workers have some brown on them while queens are black. Workers have large heads and a small thorax while adult swarmers have a smaller head and large thorax. Carpenter ants have a smoothly rounded arched (convex) shape to the top of the thorax when viewed from the side and a pedicel between the thorax and abdomen consisting of only one segment or node. They have constricted waists, elbowed antennas and the reproductive's forewings are larger than the hindwings, transparent or brownish and not easily removed. Adults are usually black with some species red, brown or yellow occurring on parts of the body and legs. Eggs are about 1/8-inch long, cream colored and oval. Larvae are legless and grub-like, later pupating in tough silken, tan-colored cocoons erroneously referred to as "ant eggs."

Carpenter ant queen her first brood of eggs and larvae

Life Cycle and Habits
Winged male and female carpenter ants (swarmers) emerge from mature colonies usually from March to July in New York City and Long Island. After mating, males die and newly fertilized females (mated for life), establish a new colony in a small cavity in wood, under bark, etc. and each lays 15 to 20 eggs in 15 days. The egg stage takes about 24 days, larval stage 21 days and pupal stage 21 days or about 66 days from egg to adult at 70 to 90 degrees F. Cool weather may lengthen this period up to 10 months. The colony does not produce swarmers until about three years later. A mature colony, after three to six years, has 2,000 to 4,000 individuals.

In later generations, workers of various sizes are produced (polymorphism) into major and minor workers, which are all sterile females. Males formed are winged swarmers. Larger "major" workers guard the nest, battle intruders, explore and forage for food while smaller "minor" workers expand the nest and care for the young. Workers, when disturbed, carry off the larvae and pupa, which must be fed and tended or they die. In a mature colony, there is usually one queen with 200 to 400 winged individuals produced as swarmers. Workers have strong jaws and readily bite (sharp pinch) when contacted.

Nests are usually established in soft, moist (not wet), decayed wood or occasionally in an existing wood cavity or void area in a structure that is perfectly dry. Workers cut galleries in the wood, expanding the nest size for the enlarging colony. Galleries are irregular, usually excavated with the wood grain (sometimes across the grain) into softer portions of the wood. The walls of the nest are smooth and clean (sandpapered appearance) with shredded sawdust-like wood fragments, like chewed up toothpicks (frass), carried from the nest and deposited outside. Carpenter ants do not eat wood but excavate wood galleries to rear their young ants and carry aphids to plants, placing them on leaves for the production of honey dew. The food diet is of great variety (omnivorous) of both plant and animal origin such as plant juices, fresh fruits, insects (living or dead), meats, syrup, honey, jelly, sugar, grease, fat, honey dew (aphid excrement), etc. They feed readily on termites and usually never co-exist with them in a home. Workers are known to forage for food as far as 100 yards from their nest.

Control Measures
The most important and often most difficult part of carpenter ant control is locating the nest or nests. Once the nest location is found, control is very easy and simple. Sometimes more than one colony is present in the structure or on its grounds, so a thorough inspection is very important. Steps to a successful inspection include an interview with family members, indoor inspections, outdoor inspections and sound detection.

Interview
Often children and adults of the residence know where ants are seen, where large numbers are most prevalent, movement patterns, moisture in the structure, moisture problems of the past, if swarmers were seen, location of sawdust-like material in piles, populations outdoors, etc.

Indoors Inspection
Nests can be found in either moist or dry wood. A moisture meter can find wet spots to pinpoint possible nest locations. Inspect behind bathroom tiles, around tubs, showers, sinks, dishwashers, washing machines, refrigerator drip pans, etc. Check wood affected by moisture from contact with the soil such as steps, porch supports, siding, seepage from plugged drain gutters, chimney flashing, wooden shingle roofs, hollow porch posts, columns, leaking window and door frames, window boxes, crawl spaces, pipes, poor pitch of porch roofs, flat deck porch roofs, under porches, attics, etc. Look for damaged timbers, swarmers in spider webs, wood piles indoors, piles of wood debris ejected from the colony (pencil sharpener shaving-like), "windows" or small opening to a nest, etc.

Notice NO Mud in the galleries

Inspection Outdoors
Look for ants traveling from a tree or stump to the structure. They may travel over tree branches or vines touching the roof, electrical and telephone wires, fences next to the house, piles of firewood, logs, or railroad ties nearby or hollow living trees with entrance knot holes, etc. Workers are most active at night (midnight), traveling from their nest to a food source following trails but no particular trail leading directly to the nest. They do establish chemical (pheromone) trails.

Sound Detection
An active colony may produce a distinct, dry rustling sound (sometimes loud), similar to the crinkling of cellophane. It may be heard in a wall when standing in a room. A listening device, such as a stethoscope, may be useful when conditions are quiet and outside noises are at a minimum.

Prevention
Homeowners should trim all trees and bushes so branches do not touch or come in contact with the house. Correct moisture problems such as leaking roofs, leaking chimney flashing, or plumbing, poorly ventilated attics or crawl spaces and blocked gutters. Replace rotted or water-damaged wood and eliminate wood to soil contact. Remove dead stumps within 50 feet of the house, if practical, and repair trees with damage at broken limbs, and holes in the trunk. Seal cracks and crevices in the foundation, especially where utility pipes and wiring occur from outside is paramount. Be sure to store firewood off the ground away from the house and bring in only enough firewood (first examining it) to be used quickly.

Insecticides
If the nest is located in a wall void, it is best to dust directly with Tri-Die, Drione, or Boric acid. Drilling 1/4 or 3/8 inch holes into the wall, sills or joists, where the nest is located, will best help the insecticide penetrate. Treat three to six feet on either side of where ants are entering to hopefully contact the nest. Some drill a series of holes at 12-inch intervals in infested timbers to intercept cavities and galleries of the nest. Holes can later be sealed by putting in dowels as plugs, small corks or covering with an appropriate sealant and touched up with paint, leaving no visible damage from the repairs. Spraying or dusting the baseboards or cracks and crevices around the infested area with residual insecticides, without locating and treating the nest, usually does not give complete control. Kill might be slow with only crack and crevice treatment since workers need to carry enough insecticide on their feet back into the nest. Ants in the nest can live more than six months without feeding. However, aerosol spray treatments in the nest can be effective if much insulation is present. Approaches and areas adjacent to the nest must be thoroughly treated with residual insecticides such as Phantom or other approved product. Outside the structure, all breaks where ants can enter the home must be treated, and a perimeter spray applied against the foundation wall at least two feet up and three feet out. Be sure to treat under the lower edge of sidings, around window and doorframes and the chimney flashing.

There are many insecticides labeled for ant control. Before using an insecticide, always read the label, follow directions and safety precautions. For professional assistance, contact Magic Exterminating to eliminate your carpenter ant problems.

Most apply a perimeter spray treatment around the house foundation. Avoid simply spraying each month whenever ants are seen. Infestations will continue unless nests are eliminated. Locating the nest is not always easy, but is essential for control.

Keys words: Carpenter Ant ID, Colony Size, Polymorphism, Frass, Omnivorous, Foraging Distance, Nest Sites, Proper Inspections, Pest Proofing

Bird Mite by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2010-01-28T05:21:00.000-08:00

Magic Pest Management services Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, the Bronx, and Nassau. Within these territories Rats and Birds causes infestations that lead to property damage, food contamination, and disease. When we attack these pest problems and resolve them Magic understands that secondary problems may occur. These come in the form of parasites. These parasites cause constant irritation through bites. Like all good parasites that feed on humans, the females need a blood meal for egg production. These parasites are mites. Known most commonly as: Bird mites and Rat mites; are sometimes also referred to as Tropical rat mite, Northern fowl mite, Tropical fowl mite, bird mite, and rat mites.

Origin: Possibly African in origin, as the Tropical rat mite was first recorded infesting rats in Egypt. These mites are now found throughout the world, although the Northern fowl mite (O. sylviarum) is more common in cooler climates and the Tropical fowl mite (O. bursa) more common in the warmer climates.

Biology: These are parasitic mites that infest warm-blooded animals. As their common names imply they may have preferred hosts of rodents or birds, but in the absence of those hosts, or in heavily infested structures, they also bite humans so pest control is important. Distinguishing each kind to its individual species is very difficult, but by identifying them to the genus level will help indicate the likely hosts. The host may be present within or on the structure. Unlike many fleas and ticks none of these mite species have been implicated as an important vector of any diseases to humans, but their bites can be very painful and lead to itching, irritated rashes. While sexual reproduction occurs the females also may reproduce parthenogenetically, without fertilization by males. The time from egg to adult mite is usually less than 2 weeks, with 4 or 5 blood meals taken during this growth period. The nymphs generally cannot survive more than 12 days without food, while adults may survive over 2 months without a blood meal.

Identification: The mites are distinguished from most other common, structural species by the very long legs and very long mouth parts. These long, pointed chelicerae and palps stick well out in front of the head region. The 8 legs are very long and well separated, allowing for good mobility by these mites. The body is oval, with the thorax and abdomen combined to a single segment without separation. The color is light grayish in unfed mites to reddish orange in mites recently having had a blood meal. The fowl mites often seem to have a patchy, mottled appearance of dark areas.

Characteristics Important in Control: Pest control relies heavily on proper identification, and then discovery of and removal of the source, which will be nests of rodents or birds in or on the structure. If the source of the bird mites is determined to be nests of swallows on the exterior, extreme care must be given to the protected status of these birds. Inspection may be made using white paper or glue pads with a light background, and at least 20X magnification may be needed to make the identification. Once the source is eliminated it may be advisable to treat within attic or crawl space areas as well as within wall voids. Residual dust insecticides or pyrethroids labeled for void treatment can be effective in pest extermination. Surface treatment is difficult since very few products in New York are labels for indoor mite control. Steri-Fab is one, but the residual quality of this product is very short. ULD BP 50 and 100 have mites on the label, but it is difficult to understand the label directions.

Treatments must be done on every rat job that is performed. Both go hand in hand, if the mite control program is not implemented then the customer will be bitten and this leads to bad will (opposite of goodwill). Here at Magic Pest Management LLC we are trying to create protocol and service guidelines to help the office staff and service technicians understand, implement, and solve our customer’s pest problems.

Learn more about Bird Mites in New York City and Long Island.

Crickets

2009-12-08T10:48:00.000-08:00

Certain crickets occasionally invade homes and become a pest by their presence. Homeowners complain of their monotonous chirping, which can be annoying especially at night when trying to get some sleep. Indoors, some crickets can feed on a wide variety of fabrics, foods and paper products. Cotton, linen, wool, rayon, nylon, silk and furs are susceptible, along with soiled fabrics, sizing from wallpaper, glue from bookbindings, fruit, vegetables, meat and even other crickets. An occasional cricket or two in the home usually presents no serious problem. However, large populations may congregate around lights at night, making places unattractive.

Identification

Crickets get their name from the high-pitched sound or "chirp" produced when the male rubs his front wings together to attract a female. Listening to their song can identify different kinds of crickets.

The "True Crickets" (House, Field, Ground, Tree) resemble long horned grasshoppers in having long tapering antennae, striculating (singing) organs on the front wings of the male and auditory (hearing) organs on the front tibiae (4th leg segment).

House Cricket
Adults are about 3/4 to 7/8 inch long, light yellowish-brown (straw-colored), with three dark bands on the head and have long, slender antennae much longer than the body. Wings lay flat on the back but are bent down abruptly on the sides. Females have a long, slender, tube like structure (ovipositor) projecting from their abdomen (spearhead at the tip) for egg-laying. Both males and females have two antenna-like (cerci) attached to the sides at the end of the abdomen.

Field Cricket
Adults range in size from 1/2 to 1-1/4 inches long depending on the species, are usually black-colored (sometimes brown), have long, slender antennae and a typical stout body (more robust than the house cricket) with large "jumping" hind legs. The ovipositor may be up to 3/4 inch long. Females have three easily seen appendages coming out of the tip of the abdomen, whereas males have only two. Most chirp and may sing both day and night.

Camel (Humpback) Cricket
Adults, sometimes called cave or cellar crickets, are a little over 3/4 inch long, light tan to dark brown (darker bands on some segments), wingless, with head bent downward, back arched (humpbacked appearance), large hind legs and long antennae. This is the most common cricket encountered by our technicians in the field.

Life Cycle and Habits
House Crickets normally live outdoors especially in garbage dumps, preferring warm weather, but will move indoors when it gets colder usually in late summer. Overwintering occurs outdoors in the egg stage. Each female can lay an average of 728 eggs with the immatures (nymphs) resembling the adults except being wingless. Nymphs molt seven to eight times and reach adulthood in about 60 days. Also, these crickets can live indoors, completing their life cycle with eggs laid in cracks, crevices and other dark areas such as behind baseboards.

Adults are very attracted to lights, and become active at night (hide during the day) to crawl, jump or fly sometimes in countless numbers up the sides of houses, entering openings of even second and third story windows and roof skylights. The continued, monotonous "chirp" is loud and distracting, resulting in lost sleep. They will feed on silk, woolens, nylon, rayon and wood. They can bite when handled carelessly. They are found in fields, pastures, lawns, roadsides, and in woods.

Field Crickets over winter as eggs or nymphs in moist, firm soil. Each female lays between 150 to 400 eggs, which hatch in the spring. Nymphs resemble adults except are smaller and wingless, molt eight to nine times and reach adulthood in about 90 days. They are serious agricultural pests feeding on many crop plants. They become household pests in late summer and early fall when they move out of fields and into buildings. They can damage furniture, rugs and clothing and the "chirping" of adult males can be irritating. They are readily attracted to lights, can fly and are often found around dumpsters. Large swarms may invade well-lighted areas covering streets and the sides of buildings black with crickets. They feed on nylon, wood, plastic fabrics, thin rubber goods and leather. Outbreaks occur when rainfall follows a period of drought.

There are many different kinds and sizes of field crickets, none of which are able to survive and reproduce in buildings. They are found outdoors in similar places as are house crickets, especially under stones or boards, entering cool, moist basements in hot summers.

Camel Crickets are active at night in cool, damp, dark areas and occasionally invading damp basements or crawlspaces. They are not attracted to lights nor produce songs. Overwintering occurs as nymphs or adults in protected places. They may be found living in large numbers, causing alarm. Some textiles may be damaged. Some hide under hay bales, feeding on other insects seeking shelter there. Most are found in caves, hollow trees, under logs and stones and in other dark, moist places. They can live and reproduce indoors.

Control Measures
Crickets are usually active at night (nocturnal), prefer shelter in cracks and crevices and invade homes seeking moisture. An occasional cricket or two in the home usually presents no serious problem. They are seldom-serious pests in the home.

Prevention
Sanitation is the most important means of eliminating nuisance crickets. Keep all areas in and around buildings free of moisture, dense vegetation and weeds (1 foot band next to foundation). Mow lawns, cut weeds, and clean up garbage collection areas. Remove harborage sites such as piles of bricks, stones, rotting wood and other debris. Caulk and seal all cracks and crevices, especially near the ground level at basement windows and doorways.

Make sure that all windows and doors are tight-fitting with proper screening in place. Exclusion is an important factor as well as light discipline. Avoid bright mercury vapor lights in entryways and along structure perimeters since crickets will be attracted from far distances. Convert to sodium vapor yellow lights (less attractive to insects) instead of white, neon or mercury vapor lights.

Never store firewood next to the house foundation. Raise garbage cans off the ground if practical. Trash and dumpsters should be placed as far from the building as possible. Crickets are attracted to food in these areas. Crickets may be troublesome at trash dumps, grassy roadsides, pasture fields and wooded areas (breeding sites) before entering structures. They may be found under decks and plastic storage bins. Crickets can be killed with a fly swatter, collected by vacuum cleaner or broom and dustpan and discarded, if a few are present. Sometimes pet owners, who keep cricket-eating animals, accidently allow crickets to escape. These individuals establish an indoor population.

Insecticides
Heavy cricket migrations are hard to control. It may be necessary to use insecticides both inside and outside the home. Indoors, apply to cracks and crevices, baseboards, in closets, under stairways, around fireplaces, in basements and other hiding places. Use cyfluthrin (Tempo), Acetamiprid & Bifenthrin (Transport GHP), diatomaceous earth, propoxur (Baygon), pyrethrins. A can of aerosol household insecticide spray can kill occasional invaders.

Outdoors, when populations are large, treat a swath around the house foundation with, Intice Granules or propoxur (Larva-Lur, Baygon) bait. It is best to perform this treatment in the late summer moths or early fall to reduce or prevent the migration indoors.

Only the licensed pest control operator or applicator can use cyfluthrin (Tempo), Acetamiprid & Bifenthrin (Transport GHP). Outdoors in moist habitats, wettable powder or microencapsulated insecticides work well. Before using any insecticide, always read the label and follow directions and safety precautions.

Pest of the Month is brought to you by Magic Pest Management, a pest control company based in New York City and Long Island.

Bed Bugs

2009-10-05T08:57:00.000-07:00

Mature Bed Bug Cimex lectularius

New York City Bed bugs are parasites that preferentially feed on humans. If people aren't available, they instead will feed on other warm-blooded animals, including birds, rodents, bats, and pets.

Bed bugs have been documented as pests since the 17th century. They were introduced into our country by the early colonists. Bed bugs were common in the New York City prior to World War II, after which time widespread use of synthetic insecticides such as DDT greatly reduced their numbers. Improvements in household and personal cleanliness as well as increased regulation of the used furniture market also likely contributed to their reduced pest status. Now the bed bug, Cimex lectularius, has resurged to quickly become a very important pest of the 21st century, as they invade numerous urban areas including hostels, hotels and residences. Our society has had a “30+ year vacation” from this pest, when bed bugs were almost removed from North America as a result of mass treatments with older types of insecticides (DDT, Chlordane, Lindane). Recently though, bed bugs have found ample opportunity to increase in number and spread through society. Their success is a result of: increased travel of people; improved treatment methods that specifically target other insect pests; and the lack of public awareness.

In the past decade, bed bugs across the Queens, Brooklyn, Manhattan, and Nassau County, now are being considered to be a major pest. The widespread use of baits rather than insecticide sprays for ant and cockroach control is a factor that has been implicated in their return. Bed bugs are blood feeders that do not feed on ant and cockroach baits. International travel and commerce are thought to facilitate the spread of these insect hitchhikers, because eggs, young, and adult bed bugs are readily transported in luggage, clothing, bedding, and furniture. Bed bugs can infest airplanes, ships, trains, and buses. Bed bugs are most frequently found in dwellings with a high rate of occupant turnover, such as hotels, motels, hostels, dormitories, shelters, apartment complexes, tenements, and prisons. Such infestations usually are not a reflection of poor hygiene or bad housekeeping.

Distribution
Bed bugs are fairly cosmopolitan. Cimex lectularius is most frequently found in the northern temperate climates of North America, Europe, and Central Asia, although it occurs sporadically in southern temperate regions. The tropical bed bug, C. hemipterus, is adapted for semitropical to tropical climates and is widespread in the warmer areas of Africa, Asia, and the tropics of North America and South America. In the United States, C. hemipterus occurs in Florida.

Identification
Adult bed bugs are brown to reddish-brown, oval-shaped, flattened, and about 3/16 to 1/5 inch long. Their flat shape enables them to readily hide in cracks and crevices. The body becomes more elongate, swollen, and dark red after a blood meal. Bed bugs have a beaklike piercing-sucking mouthpart system. The adults have small, stubby, nonfunctional wing pads. Newly hatched nymphs are nearly colorless, becoming brownish as they mature. Nymphs have the general appearance of adults. Eggs are white and about 1/32 inch long.
Bed bugs superficially resemble a number of closely related insects (family Cimicidae), such as bat bugs (Cimex adjunctus), chimney swift bugs (Cimexopsis spp.), and swallow bugs (Oeciacus spp.). A microscope is needed to examine the insect for distinguishing characteristics, which often requires the skills of an entomologist. In New York, bat bugs were far more common than bed bugs until recently.

Life Cycle
Female bed bugs lay from one to twelve eggs per day, and the eggs are deposited on rough surfaces or in crack and crevices. The eggs are coated with a sticky substance so they adhere to the substrate. Eggs hatch in 6 to 17 days, and nymphs can immediately begin to feed. They require a blood meal in order to molt. Bed bugs reach maturity after five molts. Developmental time (egg to adult) is affected by temperature and takes about 21 days at 86° F to 120 days at 65° F. The nymphal period is greatly prolonged when food is scarce. Nymphs and adults can live for several months without food. The adult's lifespan may encompass 12-18 months. Three or more generations can occur each year.

Habits
Bed bugs are fast moving insects that are nocturnal blood-feeders. Bed bugs typically cluster together in favorable harborage areas. However, some bed bugs will live by themselves, away from the majority of the infestation. They feed mostly at night when their host is asleep. After using their sharp beak to pierce the skin of a host, they inject a salivary fluid containing an anticoagulant that helps them obtain blood. Nymphs may become engorged with blood within three minutes, whereas a full-grown bed bug usually feeds for ten to fifteen minutes. They then crawl away to a hiding place to digest the meal. When hungry, bed bugs again search for a host.

Bed bugs hide during the day in dark, protected sites. They seem to prefer fabric, wood, and paper surfaces. They usually occur in fairly close proximity to the host, although they can travel far distances. Bed bugs initially can be found about tufts, seams, and folds of mattresses, later spreading to crevices in the bedstead. In heavier infestations, they also may occupy hiding places farther from the bed. They may hide in window and door frames, electrical boxes, floor cracks, baseboards, furniture, and under the tack board of wall-to-wall carpeting. Bed bugs often crawl upward to hide in pictures, wall hangings, drapery pleats, loosened wallpaper, cracks in plaster, and ceiling moldings.

Injury
The bite is painless. The salivary fluid injected by bed bugs typically causes the skin to become irritated and inflamed, although individuals can differ in their sensitivity. A small, hard, swollen, white welt may develop at the site of each bite. This is accompanied by severe itching that lasts for several hours to days. Scratching may cause the welts to become infected. The amount of blood loss due to bed bug feeding typically does not adversely affect the host.

All people are not equally sensitive to bed bug bites, so while some victims break out in rashes from the bites, other people may not display symptoms. When a reaction does occur, the results of feeding can be mild (a simple red spot) to severe (rash or even hives). Rows of three or so welts on exposed skin are characteristic signs of bed bugs. Welts do not have a red spot in the center such as is characteristic of flea bites. The reaction caused by feeding might be mistaken for other problems. Fleas, mosquitoes and other biting insects, sensitization to detergents and soaps, and irritants (e.g., poison ivy) are some of the conditions victims of bed bugs thought they were dealing with. Bed bugs have been discovered to harbor 28 different human pathogens, but fortunately, the transmission of these diseases to people has not been demonstrated.

Some individuals respond to bed bug infestations with anxiety, stress, and insomnia.

Tell-tale Signs
A bed bug infestation can be recognized by blood stains from crushed bugs or by rusty (sometimes dark) spots of excrement on sheets and mattresses, bed clothes, and walls. Fecal spots, eggshells, and shed skins may be found in the vicinity of their hiding places. An offensive, sweet, musty odor from their scent glands may be detected when bed bug infestations are severe.

Control Measures

We highly recommend that you seek assistance from a professional pest control company.

Controlling an infestation requires very detailed work and much moving (and disassembly) of furniture. Careful inspections must be completed in conjunction with non-chemical controls (such as vacuuming, and steam treatments) and insecticide treatments. The insecticides available are commercial products requiring special equipment and training, which is not readily available in “over-the-counter” products.

A critical first step is to correctly identify the blood-feeding pest, as this determines which management tactics to adopt that take into account specific bug biology and habits. For example, if the blood-feeder is a bat bug rather than a bed bug, a different management approach is needed.
Control of bed bugs is best achieved by following an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that involves multiple tactics, such as preventive measures, sanitation, and chemicals applied to targeted sites. Severe infestations usually are best handled by a licensed pest management professional.

The Green exterminating approach is not recommended for bed bug treatments, since a cocktail or mixture of various products are needed for complete control. The general accepted method includes an adulticide residual along with an IGR (insect growth regulator) and a quick knockdown product like Kicker® or Exciter®. It is now common to dust in the wall voids to help prevent spreading bed bugs to adjoining rooms. Several dusts have shown to give quick (within 24 hours) results and long lasting results (active for months).

The only Green methods available would be steaming, heat, or cryonite. Of these, heat at 110-120º F held for 4-6 hour appears to work. Temporary heat chambers may be built in the room that is infested. Steaming works as well, but it is time consuming. Steaming is best used on furniture that should not be treated with traditional pesticides. This includes treating cribs and other sensitive area. Cryonite works best if it directly contacts the bed bugs. None of these methods leave a residual; therefore bed bugs may re-infest within minutes after treatment.

It is highly recommended that a mattress cover and box spring cover be purchased and install on all mattresses within the premises, regardless if the room is being treated or not. The only mattress cover I recommend at this time is the Protect-A-Bed® brand. It is easy to install and is designed specifically to protect the mattress against bed bug infestations.
Sticky traps or glueboards may be used to capture bed bugs that wander about. However, the effectiveness of these traps is not well documented.

Prevention
The greatest risk for encountering bed bugs appears to be while people are traveling. Regardless of the type of accommodations you stay at, it is a good precaution to check your room. Check around the headboard and adjacent area of the bed. Also inspect luggage stands or other areas where suitcases are typically set down. Be aware of any unexplained bites you may find in the morning; that could be the result of bed bugs. Also watch for fecal spots, which could occur on bed sheets or nearby areas. Inspect your luggage when you get home after a trip for any bed bugs that may have escaped your earlier attention. Other sources may be associated with the scavenging of used furniture. Residents and Tenants are strongly cautioned against “scavenging” beds and furniture that have seemingly been discarded and left by the curb for disposal, or behind places of business.

After the mattress is vacuumed or scrubbed, it can be enclosed in a zippered mattress cover such as that used for house dust mites. Any bed bugs remaining on the mattress will be trapped inside the cover. Leave the cover in place since bed bugs can live for a long time without a blood meal.
Bed bug infestations are not limited to beds and mattresses, and they can be found on tables, drawers, and even electronics if these items were located in a bedroom or other place that could support an infestation.

Caulk cracks and crevices in the building exterior and also repair or screen openings to exclude birds, bats, and rodents that can serve as alternate hosts for bed bugs.

Inspection
A thorough inspection of the premises to locate bed bugs and their harborage sites is necessary so that cleaning efforts and insecticide treatments can be focused. The best way to determine if you have an infestation is to look for bed bugs where you sleep (or rest) and where you typically set down luggage (or bags) when you enter the residence. Your luggage and places where your luggage may be stored are also some of the first areas to look. In bedrooms, look particularly around box springs, mattresses, bed frames, tufts, folds, and buttons on mattresses, furniture, such as desks and chairs, behind wall paper, clocks and pictures, cracks in wood floors, and under the edge of carpet. While bed bugs are most commonly found in bedrooms, infestations can also occur in other rooms, including: bathrooms; living rooms; and laundry rooms. Dark blood spots on sheets and bedding may indicate bed bug feeding. Bed bugs will sometimes excrete while they are feeding. This results in darker (reddish or brownish) spots or smears placed on bed sheets, pillowcases and mattresses, or in nearby areas. The latter sites include window and door frames, floor cracks, carpet tack boards, baseboards, electrical boxes, furniture, pictures, wall hangings, drapery pleats, loosened wallpaper, cracks in plaster, and ceiling moldings. Determine whether birds or rodents are nesting on or near the house.

Be prepared to do some close inspection and when in doubt, consider having the inspection done by a pest control service. In severe infestations, bed bugs may be more noticeable. The accumulation of bugs, cast skins and fecal spots will be very apparent upon close inspection.

In light infestations, a bed bug dog may be used to detect the source.
In hotels, apartments, and other multiple-type dwellings, it is advisable to also inspect adjoining units since bed bugs can travel long distances.
If at any time a bed bug is found: discontinue inspection and initiate control activity! Do not continue with the inspection alone, as bed bugs will move from their hiding places once disturbed. Further inspections must be accompanied by control measures.

Sanitation
Sanitation measures include frequently vacuuming the mattress and premises, laundering bedding and clothing in hot water, and cleaning and sanitizing dwellings. After vacuuming, immediately place the vacuum cleaner bag in a plastic bag, seal tightly, and discard in a container outdoors-this prevents captured bed bugs from escaping into the home. A stiff brush can be used to scrub the mattress seams to dislodge bed bugs and eggs. Discarding the mattress is another option, although a new mattress can quickly become infested if bed bugs are still on the premises. Steam cleaning of mattresses generally is not recommended because it is difficult to get rid of excess moisture, which can lead to problems with mold, mildew, house dust mites, etc.

Repair cracks in plaster and glue down loosened wallpaper to eliminate bed bug harborage sites. Remove and destroy wild animal roosts and nests when possible.

Reference
Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet
HYG-2105-04
Susan C. Jones, Ph.D.,

Assistant Professor of Entomology

For more information on bed bugs, or to help identify pests and rodents that may be causing problems in your business or residence in New York City, visit Magic's Pest Identification Guide.

FLEAS

2009-09-16T13:56:00.000-07:00

Common & Scientific Name
Cat Flea - Ctenocephalides felis (Bouche)
Dog Flea - Ctenocephalides canis (Curtis)
Northern Rat Flea - Nosopsyllus fasciatus (Bosc)
Oriental Rat Flea - Xenopsylla cheopis (Rothschild)
Rabbit Flea - Cediopsylla simplex (Baker)

Fleas are very important pests in New York City, especially during the months of July through October, but sometimes persist all year when indoors. It is estimated pet owners alone spend over $1 billion each year controlling fleas. Most of Magic’s flea work takes place when homeowners return from vacation and find out they have fleas. It is at this time that the fleas, starving attach both humans and their companion animals. It doesn’t matter if it is an urban environment within Brooklyn, Queens, Manhattan, the Bronx, or a suburban area within Nassau, fleas are everywhere.

Adult fleas are not only a nuisance to humans and their pets, but can cause medical problems including flea allergy dermatitis (FAD), tapeworms, secondary skin irritations and, in extreme cases, anemia. Although bites are rarely felt, it is the resulting irritation caused by the flea salivary secretions that varies among individuals. Some may witness a severe reaction (general rash or inflammation) resulting in secondary infections caused by scratching the irritated skin area. Others may show no reaction or irritation acquired after repeated bites over several weeks or months. Most bites usually found on the ankles and legs may cause pain lasting a few minutes, hours or days depending on one's sensitivity. The typical reaction to the bite is the formation of a small, hard, red, slightly-raised (swollen) itching spot. There is a single puncture point in the center of each spot. (Ants and spiders leave two marks when they bite. Mosquitoes, bees, wasps and bedbugs cause a large swelling or welt). Also, fleas may transmit bubonic plague from rodent to rodent and from rodent to humans. Oriental rat fleas can transmit murine typhus (endemic typhus) fever among rats and from rats to humans. Tapeworms normally infest dogs and cats but may appear in children if parts of infested fleas are accidentally consumed.

Identification - Adult fleas are about 1/16 to 1/8-inch long, dark reddish-brown, wingless, hard-bodied (difficult to crush between fingers), have three pairs of legs (hind legs enlarged enabling jumping) and are flattened vertically or side to side (bluegill or sunfish-like) allowing easy movement between the hair, fur or feathers of the host. Fleas are excellent jumpers, leaping vertically up to seven inches and horizontally thirteen inches. (An equivalent hop for a human would be 250 feet vertically and 450 feet horizontally.) They have piercing-sucking mouthparts and spines on the body projecting backward. Also, there is a row of spines on the face known as a genal comb. Spine I (first outer spine) is shorter than Spine II (next inner spine) in dog fleas. Both spines are about the same length in the cat flea. The rabbit flea has a vertical genal comb with blunt spines. The genal comb is absent in both rat fleas. Eggs are smooth, oval and white. Larvae are 1/4-inch long, slender, straw-colored, brown headed, wormlike, bristly-haired creatures (13 body segments), that are legless, have chewing mouthparts, are active, and avoid light. Pupae are enclosed in silken cocoons covered with particles of debris.

Life Cycle and Habits - Fleas pass through a complete life cycle consisting of egg, larva, pupa and adult. A typical flea population consists of 50 percent eggs, 35 percent larvae, 10 percent pupae and 5 percent adults. Completion of the life cycle from egg to adult varies from two weeks to eight months depending on the temperature, humidity, food, and species. Normally after a blood meal, the female flea lays about 15 to 20 eggs per day up to 600 in a lifetime usually on the host (dogs, cats, rats, rabbits, mice, squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, opossums, foxes, chickens, humans, etc.). Eggs loosely laid in the hair coat, drop out most anywhere especially where the host rests, sleeps or nests (rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, cat or dog boxes, kennels, sand boxes, etc.). Eggs hatch in two days to two weeks into larvae found indoors in floor cracks & crevices, along baseboards, under rug edges and in furniture or beds. Outdoor development occurs in sandy gravel soils (moist sand boxes, dirt crawlspace under the house, under shrubs, etc.) where the pet may rest or sleep. Sand and gravel are very suitable for larval development which is the reason fleas are erroneously called "sand fleas."

Larvae are blind, avoid light, pass through three larval instars and take a week to several months to develop. Their food consists of digested blood from adult flea feces, dead skin, hair, feathers, and other organic debris. (Larvae do not suck blood.) Pupa mature to adulthood within a silken cocoon woven by the larva to which pet hair, carpet fiber, dust, grass cuttings, and other debris adheres. In about five to fourteen days, adult fleas emerge or may remain resting in the cocoon until the detection of vibration (pet and people movement), pressure (host animal lying down on them), heat, noise, or carbon dioxide (meaning a potential blood source is near). Most fleas overwinter in the larval or pupal stage with survival and growth best during warm, moist winters and spring.

Adult fleas cannot survive or lay eggs without a blood meal, but may live from two months to one year without feeding. There is often a desperate need for flea control after a family has returned from a long vacation. The house has been empty with no cat or dog around for fleas to feed on. When the family and pets are gone, flea eggs hatch and larvae pupate. The adult fleas fully developed inside the pupal cocoon remains in a kind of "limbo" for a long time until a blood source is near. The family returning from vacation is immediately attacked by waiting hungry hordes of fleas. (In just 30 days, 10 female fleas under ideal conditions can multiply to over a quarter million different life stages.)

Newly emerged adult fleas live only about one week if a blood meal is not obtained. However, completely developed adult fleas can live for several months without eating, so long as they do not emerge from their puparia. Optimum temperatures for the flea's life cycle are 70°F to 85°F and optimum humidity is 70 percent. The cat flea is the most common flea in Ohio which feeds on a wide range of hosts.

Medication - Relief from itching can be obtained by applying carbolated vaseline, menthol, camphor, calamine lotion or ice. Highly sensitive persons should consult their physician for advise.

Repellents - Apply on the outer clothing and to exposed skin. Do not use under clothing. N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide (DEET) is very effective, but should not be used carelessly as severe allergies can develop. Do not apply repellents over cuts, wounds, irritated skin, around eyes or mouth or to the hands of young children.

Control Measures - Flea control is best achieved with a simultaneous, coordinated effort involving strict sanitation, pet treatment and premise treatment (both indoors & outdoors). Magic Pest Management’s Flea treatment program is prepared to help the homeowner get rid of the problem within two visits. In many cases only one visit solves the infestation.

Inspection - Before treatment, discuss the pet's habits with family members to determine where resting and sleeping occurs most frequently. Flea activity "hot spots" can be detected by placing white socks over shoes and walking through the residence into suspected areas. Research has demonstrated that these areas will contain the highest amount of eggs, larvae and pupae even after vacuuming. Hot spots for homes with dogs are usually areas where the pet goes in and out of the house, eats, sleeps and spends time with the family at the base of furniture. For cats, check the tops of refrigerators, cabinets, book cases and higher locations.

One can monitor flea populations by placing a shallow pan of water with a little dish detergent (acts as a wetting agent which breaks water surface tension) on the floor. Position a gooseneck lamp with the light on about five to six inches above the liquid surface. Adult fleas will leap toward the light at night, fall into the detergent solution and drown. The Happy Jack and pulvex (Zema) flea trap is a commercial apparatus based on the same principle. Also, an ultralight flea trap with a green light attracts fleas into a sticky tray.

Sanitation - Before vacuuming, collect all items (toys, shoes, clothes, etc.) off the floor, under beds, furniture, in closets, etc., to ensure best access for treatment. Also cover fish tanks, remove bird cages, pet food and water dishes and wash or dry clean any pet bedding. Vacuuming carpet with a beater-bar type vacuum where the pet rests and sleeps will help control flea larvae by removing eggs and dried blood feces (larval food) plus opening up the carpet's nap for more effective insecticide treatment. Vacuuming must be performed on a regular basis every other day to be effective. Flea larvae do not move far from the site of hatching when there is adequate food (dried blood feces from adults). Research indicates larvae spend 83 percent of the time deep in the carpet at the base of fibers frequently becoming entwined within the carpet. At pupation, the larva move up the carpet fiber spinning a camouflaging cocoon around itself. Vacuum especially where lint and pet hairs accumulate along baseboards, around carpet edges, on ventilators, around heat registers, in floor cracks, and under and in furniture where the pet sleeps.

After vacuuming, place the vacuum bag in a large plastic garbage bag and discard in an outdoor trash container. If the cleaner uses a liquid water medium in a plastic pan (rather than a dust bag) discard dirty water far away from the house.

Biological - Use an insect growth regulator (IGR), which is a hormone to prevent eggs from hatching and larvae from pupating into biting adults. The IGRs methoprene (Precor) and pyriproxyfen (Ultracide) are odorless and nonstaining on carpets or fabrics. Methoprene usually will reduce flea populations up to 95 percent in just 14 days while pyriproxyfen, due to its photostability, lasts in carpets for many months controlling fleas. IGRs do not kill pupa or adults and are more effective when mixed with an adulticide. Recent research shows the new IGR pyriproxyfen mixed with permethrin will often give 90 day control. IGRs are considered biodegradable and are not known to accumulate in the food chain. Methoprene, approved by the World Health Organization (WHO), is used in drinking water in some countries for mosquito larva control. IGRs are of negligible hazard to humans, pets, and the environment.

Parasitic nematodes, Steinernema carpocapsae (Biosafe, Exhibit, Vector TL) are labelled against flea larvae and pupae in the yard and garden habitats.

Botanicals - Pyrethrins, derived from the flowers of chrysanthemum, and rotenone from the roots of derris, cube and cracca plants, are good contact insecticides. Linalool (Demize), a citrus peel extract, is a natural, fast-acting flea killer, giving short residual control. Other botanicals include d-Limonene (Flea-Stop), citronella oil, eucalyptus oil, pennyroyal oil, balsam, lavender oil, calendula, comfrey, rosemary, tea tree oil and yucca.

Feeding pets garlic, brewer's yeast or B vitamins has not been shown to be effective against fleas. Also, pennyroyal, eucalyptus, rosemary, tea leaves and citronella have not provided effective control. In fact, overdosing of garlic or onion can be irritating or toxic to pets.
Prevention - Trim lawns and weeds to create a drier, less-ideal environment for flea larvae. Avoid piles of sand and gravel around the home for long periods of time. Fence yards to prevent dogs from roaming freely in heavily infested areas or contacting other infested animals.

Discourage nesting or roosting of rodents and birds on or near the premises. Screen or seal vents, chimneys, crevices, etc. where rats, mice, squirrels, raccoons, chipmunks, etc. may use to enter crawlspaces and buildings. Wash or destroy pet bedding, regularly groom pets and vacuum frequently to remove up to 95 percent of the flea eggs, some larvae and adults. Only about 20 percent of the larvae might be removed when vacuuming since they wrap themselves around the bottom strands of carpeting.

Mechanical Control - An ultra flea comb, a product of Four Paws Product, Ltd. available through your licensed veterinarian, works well to remove fleas from the pet's haircoat.

Chemical Control - There are literally hundreds of products on the market for flea control on pets and the premises. For successful flea control, infested pets and the premises need to be treated at the same time.

Before application, read and follow the insecticide label and safety precautions. People and pets should be out of the house when treatments are made, and not return until the treated spray surfaces have dried. Depending on the carpet and type of treatment, it may take several hours (usually three to four hours to give the insecticide a better chance to work). To assist in drying, open windows and use a fan or air conditioner.

Usually, the licensed professional pest control operator has the experience, training, equipment and most effective insecticides for overall flea control.

Pets - There are many formulations as shampoos, aerosols, dips, sprays, dusts (powders), collars, dab-ons, spot-ons and monthly tablet or oral liquid treatments. Usually, the most effective pet treatments are available through licensed veterinarians.
Veterinary-Prescribed Products

1. Lufenuron (Program), a non-pesticide, is a product of Novartis Corporation that controls fleas on dogs and cats of any size, weight or breed. Program is safe for pregnant dogs and puppies, and cats and kittens as young as six weeks. A dog is given one tablet once a month with a normal meal. Cats are given a tablet or a liquid dose once a month with a liquid meal. Lufenuron is a Chitin Synthesis Inhibitor (CSI) or Insect Development Inhibitor (IDI) that breaks the flea's life cycle by preventing eggs and larvae from developing. Nearly 100 percent of eggs laid by treated fleas do not develop. There is no effect on the adult flea. Tiny immature flea eggs, larvae and pupae may be hidden in carpets and upholstery or yard and dog houses, so it may take a few weeks to see how effective lufenuron works. Help by vacuuming your carpet and bathing your pet. Prevent fleas by giving lufenuron tablets once a month, year-round without interruption. Lufenuron is very safe to humans, pets and the environment. (Fleas have to bite pet.)

2. Fipronil (Frontline Top Spot), a pesticide, is a product of Rhone Merieux, Inc. that kills adult fleas up to three months on dogs and a month or more on cats. Ticks are killed for a month or more on dogs and cats. Frontline Top Spot can be used on 10-week old puppies, 12-week old kittens and pets receiving other medications. A pre-measured dosage in a plastic pipette is applied in a spot between the pet's shoulder blades. Be sure to part the fur and squeeze the tube to apply entire contents to the skin surface. For best results, do not bathe the pet two days before or after treatment. It remains effective after bathing or swimming. Fipronil dissolves in oils on the skin and, within 24 hours after application, spreads over the entire pet (translocation). Fipronil collects in the hair follicles and oil-producing glands of the skin where it slowly wicks out of the follicles covering the skin and fur for up to three months. Topline is also available for application in a metered spray pump. (Fleas do not have to bite pet.)

3. Cythioate (Proban), a pesticide, is a product of Bayer in the tablet or oral liquid formulation, that controls fleas on dogs of all ages (do not use in greyhounds or animals that are pregnant, sick, under stress, or recovering from surgery). It is not registered for cats. This organophosphate is rapidly absorbed from the gastrointestinal tract and distributed throughout the body. It causes the animal's blood to be lethal to the fleas that consume it. Fleas are killed (90 to 100 percent) by ingesting the drug from the body fluids during the first week. Additional treatments for several weeks are needed. (Fleas have to bite pet.)

4. Fenthion (Pro-Spot), a pesticide, is a product of Bayer, that controls fleas on dogs at the time of treatment and has good residual activity against many of the fleas that may reinfest the dog after treatment. Treatments should not be repeated more often than once every two weeks. Do not use with flea or tick collars. This topically applied organophosphate, with good systemic activity, is available in multiple sizes, each for a different weight range of dogs. Apply the applicator tube contents on the dog's back on the skin (part the hair) between the shoulder blades. Do not use on puppies under 10 weeks of age. Use with a control program reducing flea populations and flea breeding areas in the dog's environment - bedding, carpets, yard, etc. (Fleas have to bite pet.)

5. Imidacloprid (Advantage), a pesticide, is a product of Bayer, kills adult fleas on contact on cats and dogs before they can lay eggs and the flea life cycle is broken. About 98 to 100 percent of adult fleas are killed on the pet within 24 hours by a topical spot application on the back of the neck on cats and between the shoulder blades on dogs. A single dose works for at least four weeks on dogs and up to four weeks on cats. Imidacloprid (a pesticide) has been used on pregnant and lactating dogs and one-month-old puppies with no clinical abnormalities (Apply once a month). There is no waiting period to handle pets after application. Also, treated dogs immersed in water weekly for 30 days still experience nearly 90 percent flea control efficacy. (Fleas do not have to bite pet.)

6. Pyriproxyfen (Nylor, Archer), a non-pesticide, is a product of Virbac that is a new 3rd generation Insect Growth Regulator (IGR) - Juvenile hormone mimic. Pyriproxyfen (a non-pesticide) + permethrin kills adult fleas and ticks plus kills flea eggs for dogs.
If the homeowner treats the pet, powders or dusts are preferred over sprays. Put on rubber gloves and apply the dust thoroughly into the hair coat according to label directions. Cats are more susceptible than dogs to toxic effects of many insecticides since they groom themselves. Flea collars cannot always be relied upon to bring existing infestations under control. Collars do not kill existing premise infestations. Some animals are sensitive to collars. Watch for signs of dermatitis on the neck under the collar. After 24 hours, 95 percent of attached ticks become detached.

Indoors - Automatic aerosol foggers, available in a canister, will give good knockdown and kill many biting adult fleas. Insecticides include methoprene + permethrin, pyriproxyfen + permethrin and pyrethrin.

Magic Pest Management’s program consists of an liquid adulticide, insect growth regulator, dusts, and aerosols. Some of the products that may be used are as follows; a coarse spray (40 psi) of an approved adulticide applied to cracks and crevices of floors, moldings and baseboards up to a height of one foot usually gives good results. Other flea killers include tetramethrin (Bio Flea Halt), amorphus silica gel (Drione, Tri-Die), diatomaceous earth (Answer, Organic Plus), esfenvalerate (Conquer), linalool (Demize) and d-limonene (Flea-Stop).
Additional highly effective insecticides available to the licensed commercial and pest control operator include cyfluthrin (Tempo), cypermethrin (Cynoff), and deltamethrin (Delta Gard, Suspend). Water-based sprays are generally used for treating all carpeting and upholstered furniture.

Since there is no flea resistance to borates, many homeowners try switching to boric acid and disodium octaborate tetrahydrate. Boric Acid (Fleabuster, Flea Halt) is a stomach poison killing fleas in the larva stage. Apply directly on vacuumed, cleaned carpets where pets frequently travel or sleep. Work powder deeply into fibers with a broom or rug rake. For upholstery, remove loose cushions, apply along creases and into corner not to exposed fabric. Any powder visible after application must be brushed in cracks or removed. Borates are environmentally safe, odorless and used in homes with children and pets.

Outdoors - If the cat or dog regularly goes outside, treatment will be useful. Cats generally roam over greater areas than dogs and will pick up fleas seeding the home grounds with their infestations. Cats using sand boxes and dogs sleeping under shrubs and crawlspaces provide a reservoir of fleas. Treat outdoor areas frequented by pets during the summer months with deltamethrin (Delta Gard), or pyrethrins. Animal pens, kennels, doghouses, crawlspaces and sandy soil or gravel driveways are important to spot treat with a hand sprayer. Clean and sweep porches, mow the grass and soak the dry soil with water before treating to bring the flea larvae up to the surface. Additional treatments at intervals, according to label directions, may be needed.

Here at Magic our program changes as new innovative products enter the market and new treatment methods improve our ability to reduce the amount of pesticides used. We do have a new Green program for fleas, but this type of treatment may take several more applications and time.

Reference
Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet HYG-2081-97 by William F. Lyon
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2081.html

Pest of the Month– Yellowjacket by Ralph H. Maestre BCE

2009-08-17T07:56:00.000-07:00

YellowJackets and Wasps
Yellowjacket wasps often become a nuisance in New York, especially from August through October, as they build up in large populations and scavenge for human food (carbonated bever-ages, cider, juices, ripe fruits and vegetables, candy, ice cream, fish, ham, hamburgers, hot dogs, etc.) at picnics, cookouts, outside restaurants, bakeries, campsites, fairs, sports events and other outdoor get-togethers. Many are attracted in large numbers to garbage cans and other trash receptacles. Others fly in and out of nests built around homes, buildings and areas where people live, work and play, causing fear and alarm. Although yellowjackets are considered quite beneficial to agricul-ture since they feed abundantly on harmful flies and caterpillars, it is their boldness (sometimes aggressiveness) and painful stinging ability that cause most concern.

Nevertheless, unless the threat of stings and nest location pre-sent a hazard, it is often best to wait for Mother Nature, with freezing temperatures in late November and December, to kill off these annual colonies. Stinging workers do not survive the winter and the same nest is not reused.

Identification
A typical yellowjacket worker is about 1/2-inch long, short and blocky, with alternating black and yellow bands on the abdomen while the queen is larger, about 3/4-inch long. (The different black and yellow patterns on the abdo-men help separate various species.) Workers are sometimes confused with honey bees, especially when flying in and out of their nests.

Yellowjackets, in contrast to honey bees, are not covered with tan-brown dense hair on their bodies and lack the flattened hairy hind legs used to carry pollen. Yellowjackets have a lance-like stinger without barbs.

Life Cycle and Habits
Yellowjackets are social wasps living in colonies containing workers, queens and males. Colonies are annual with only inseminated queens overwintering. Fertilized queens occur in pro-tected places as hollow logs, in stumps, under bark, in leaf litter, in soil cavities and human-made structures. Queens emerge during the warm days of late April or early May, select a nest site and build a small paper nest in which eggs are laid. After eggs hatch from the 30 to 50 brood cells, the queen feeds the young larvae for about 18 to 20 days. Larvae pupate, emerging later as small, infertile females called workers. By mid-June, the first adult workers emerge and assume the tasks of nest expansion, foraging for food, care of the queen and larvae, and colony defense. From this time until her death in the autumn, the queen remains inside the nest laying eggs. The colony then expands rapidly reaching a maximum size of 4,000 to 5,000 workers and a nest of 10,000 to 15,000 cells in August and late September. At peak size, reproductive cells are built with new males and queens produced. Adult reproductives remain in the nest fed by the workers. New queens build up fat reserves to overwinter. Adult repro-ductives leave the parent colony to mate. After mating, males quickly die while fertilized queens seek protected places to overwinter. Parent colony workers dwindle, usually leaving the nest and die, as does the foundress queen. Abandoned nests rapidly de-compose and disintegrate during the winter. Nests inside structures will persist as long as they are dry. Nests are not used again. In the spring, the cycle is repeated. (Weather in the spring is the most important factor in colony establishment.) Although adults feed primarily on items rich in sugars and carbohydrates (fruits, flower nectar and tree sap), the larvae feed on pro-teins (insects, meats, fish, etc.). Adult workers chew and condition the meat fed to the larvae. Larvae in return secrete a sugar material relished by the adults. (This exchange of material is known as trophallaxis.) In late autumn, foraging workers (nuisance scavengers) change their food preference from meats to ripe, decaying fruits since larvae in the nest fail to meet require-ments as a source of sugar.

In 1970s, the German yellowjacket first appeared in New York and has now become the dominant species over the Eastern yellowjacket. It is bold, aggres-sive and, if provoked, can sting repeatedly and painfully. The German yellowjacket builds a grey, brittle, papery soccer or football shaped nest in struc-tures with the peak worker population between 1,000 to 3,000 individuals between May to November. The Eastern yellowjacket builds a tan, fragile papery soccer or football shaped nest underground with the peak worker population between 1,000 to 3,000 individuals between May to November similar to the Common yellowjacket. Nests are built entirely of wood fiber (usually weathered or dead) and are completely enclosed (football or soccer shaped) except for a small opening (entrance) at the bottom. The nest may be located below the soil or aerial with the paper envelope covering contain-ing multiple, horizontal tiers of combs (10 or more) within. Larvae hang down in combs.

Sting Prevention
It is always best to avoid unnecessary stings. Should a yellowjacket wasp fly near you or land on your body, never swing or strike at it or run rapidly away since quick movements often provoke attack and painful stings. When a wasp is near you, slowly raise your hands to protect your face remaining calm and stationary for a while and then move very slowly (avoid stepping on the ground nest), backing out through bushes or moving indoors to escape. Wasps and bees can fly about six to seven miles per hour so humans can outrun them. However, by the time one starts running, there could quickly be a dozen or so painful stings caused by the rapid movement. There is an old saying that "one who stands still and shoots an aerial nest with a shotgun need not fear, instead it is the person that rapidly runs away who gets all the stings." Never strike, swing or crush a wasp or bee against your body since it could incite nearby yellowjack-ets into a frenzied attack. Wasp venom contains a chemical "alarm pheromone," released into the air, signaling guard wasps to come and sting whom-ever and whatever gets in their way.

Unfortunately, many serious accidents have resulted when one runs away from attacking wasps and into the path of automobiles. When a bee or wasp gets into a moving car, remain calm. They almost never sting when in en-closed spaces as a car or house. Instead, they fly against windows. Slowly and safely pull over off the road, open the windows and allow the escape.

For more information on yellowjackets, or other pests, please visit Magic Exterminating's Pest Identification site.